Twin Falls, Ching's Pond, Piilanihale Heiau, Blue Pool, Waianapanapa to Hana coastal trail, Venus Pool, Red Sand Beach, Oheo Gulch

Thirty-something of us--almost all members of HTMC--invaded the Valley
Isle for a couple days of hiking, swimming, eating, and having fun.
The weather wasn't always the best, but as Grant said at one point during
the trip, "Even with the rain and cold, it's better than any day at work."
Yup, he's right about that.

We flew to Maui on Friday morning (5/4), the majority doing so on Aloha
Airlines (better rates? dunno?).  For ground transport, we used
two 15-passenger vans, a mid-sized car, and Mark Short's family van (Mark
is an HTMC member and recently moved to Maui).  Getting all the bags,
gargantuan food supply, and bodies into the four vehicles was a
challenge, but we're talking about folks with plenty of experience
putting cargo--human and otherwise--into the right place.  So no problem.

For the record, the trip participants (35) were as follows:  Mabel Kekina,
Carole K. Moon, June Miyasato, Deetsie Chave, Bill Gorst, Carmen Craig,
Ralph/Bev/Michael Valentino, Jason/Cera/Kimberly Sunada, Kris Corliss &
Larry/Ginger Oswald, Gordon/Connie Muschek, Mark/Jacob/Dylan Short,
Joe/Ruby Bussen, Pat Rorie, Arnold Fujioka, Nathan Yuen, Thea Ferentinos,
Justin Ohara, Grant Oka, Joyce Tomlinson, Ken Suzuki, Mike Algiers,
Helene Sroat, Jackie/Jamie Delgado, Dayle Turner.  A special mahalo goes
to Lynn Agena, who didn't make the trip but was the major mover in
purchasing and preparing the food we ate on the trip. Way to go, Lynn.

After figuring out what/who went where, we made a stop at Safeway in
Kahului to pick up lunch for the day plus snacks and other food items &
supplies needed for the next couple days.  A few people grabbed some
burgers at a nearby Jack in the Box.

Our first hiking/swimming spot was Twin Falls, located at Marker 2 on the
Hana Hwy well past Paia.  Anyone looking for this trailhead should have no
trouble finding it because of the tourist cars parked along the roadside
and a refreshment stand there as well. Many of the places we hiked/swam
began at trailheads with "Keep Out, No Trespassing" signs.  However, most
of these same spots are well-known (based on info available on the 'net
and in books) and well-used (based on the stamped-down nature of the
trails).  Whatever the case, the landowners seem not to enforce what is
said on the signs. As far as Twin Falls, a hike of 10 to 15 minutes
delivered us to a 30-foot cascade where about half of our entourage
took the first of what would be many plunges in the coming days.

Stop 2 was at Ching's Pond, a clear, pleasant swimming hole located on the
ocean side of the highway.  I don't recall the nearest mile marker for
this spot, but I do remember it is several miles before Pua'a Kaa
Park.  We ate lunch at Ching's Pond.  Afterward we made the 100-foot
climb back to the highway, crossed it, and then headed mauka on a jeep
road to a pool Ken said was fantastic.  Unfortunately, only a handful made
it to the pool (I didn't) to experience its fantastic-ness.  Maybe next
time.

Stop 3 was at Puaa Kaa Wayside.  No hiking here.  Just a quick stop to use
the lua and to stretch the legs.

Our next stop was supposed to be Hanawi Falls, accessed via a trailhead at
the end of the road down to Nahiku.  As would be the case during our trip,
plans changed often, sometimes minute to minute (okay, that's an
exaggeration but it seemed that way on occasion).  So instead of Hanawi,
we drove on to Kahanu Gardens, home of Piilanihale Heiau, the largest in
Hawaii.  We arrived after the 2 pm closing of the Gardens, but Mabel had
heard from someone that we could enter the grounds nonetheless, so that's
what we did.  The Gardens are immaculately kept and feature a variety of
unusual trees like jackfruit and eggfruit.  On the ~1-mile walk to
the heiau, we met some caretakers of the garden.  They suggested a $5 per
person donation for our visit, but our negotiators whittled the total
down to $60 for the 35 of us and later to no cash and a few hours of
labor in the gardens at a future date.  Hmmm, maybe $60 is the better
deal.

A bit about Piilanihale: it was built in the 14th century for the
benevolent, beloved Maui chief, Piilani.  The site was overgrown with
weeds until the 1970s and is now a National Historic Landmark. The heiau's
dimensions are 415 x 340 feet.  Huge and majestic.

The next stop took us on a short drive to the end of the road past
Kahanu Gardens.  From there, we rockhopped along the coast for five
minutes to Blue Pool, a wonderful seaside swimming spot at the foot of a
vegetation-covered cliffside cascade.  It was late in the day and overcast
during our visit, so conditions weren't optimal, but many of us took the
plunge nevertheless, including Pat in his spiffy, new wetsuit.

Waianapanapa State Park was our final stop of the day, and the cabins and
campgrounds there would be our homebase for the rest of our stay.  We had
four cabins reserved for 24 (plus 1).  Another six tent-camped at the
site next to the caretaker's house.  And four stayed at a rental in
Hana town.  Prior to the trip, we had all pitched in money for food, with
dinners (teri chicken & curry stew) prepared and eaten at a central
designated cabin.  Breakfasts (eggs, sausage, hot cereal) were prepped
and eaten at individual cabins (with tent campers and the four rental
dwellers eating at a cabin of their choice).  Sandwich fixings,
chips, fruit, and trail mix were made available to each cabin for
in-the pack lunches. It all worked out well.  I was one of the tenters and
enjoyed the benefit of a quiet night's sleep, which wasn't necessarily
the case for those in the cabins (read: snoring).  I had to deal with some
rain, with setting up and breaking down my tent, and with the half-mile
walk to and from the cabins, but these were minor inconveniences.

Day 2 (Saturday) was all about rain and dreary weather.  But as hardcore
HTMC folks, we're undaunted by such conditions.  After breakfast, we set
out in a light drizzle on the rocky coastal trail from Waianapanapa to
Hana town, a distance of about three miles.  Along the way, we
passed a shack maintained by fishermen and a couple of older shoreside
homes with guardian dogs.  Right before the homes we came to a dirt road
heading inland, which turned out to be the quick route to the road into
town.  A bunch of us with a disdain for dirt roads continued along the
coast to  eventually reach a black sand beach where we were able to
access a paved road leading to the road into town. A key turnoff en
route was a grassy  road marked by a fishing lure hanging in a tree.  A
pleasant surprise to me was that Jackie (my girlfriend) and Jamie (her
daughter) were able to stay up near the front of the group without
complaining since they don't hike as much as the rest of us. Good job to
those two.

We all were able to find our way to the road to town and ended up at the
Hana pier, where we had staged the vans earlier in the morning.  We spent
time at Tutu's Snack Shop (pricey but one of the few games in town),
enjoying warm coffee, cocoa, ice cream, and whatever else we wanted.  The
snack shop and pier sits at the foot of a massive 400-foot pu'u named
Kauiki.  On the opposite side of Kauiki is Red Sand Beach, our next
supposed destination of the day. But the due to the weather and rough
ocean conditions, the plan was altered and the next stop was changed to
Venus Pool (aka Waioka Pool). A few folks didn't get wind of the
modified plan and attempted to hike around the seaward side of Kauiki to
reach Red Sand Beach.  However, they discovered vertical sea cliffs made
this impossible, so they climbed up to the crest of Kauiki and down its
mauka side.

The trail to Venus Pool is just after mile marker 48 on the
Hana-town side of Waiohonu Bridge.  A 100-meter walk brought us to the
pool, which features several rocky outcrops for jumping and diving.  The
stars of Venus Pool were na keiki, Ginger and Jamie, who jumped off the
highest rock (~40 feet) several times each.  While a few of the men
leaped from this high perch, most macho types (like me) did not (yup,
chicken).  So hats off to the daring youngsters.

Our final stop of day 2 was Red Sand Beach, located on the southern side
of Kauiki.  Reputedly a place frequented by nude sunbathers, Red Sand
Beach does indeed have red sand.  What it didn't have on this day were any
nudists. In fact, members of our group were the first on the beach
thought after our arrival a few other folks arrived.  Yes, we shed our
clothes.  But no one shed all his or her clothes.  Cera, perhaps wanting
to burn some  excess energy, climbed partway up the steep slope
overlooking the beach. Way to go, Cera.

We returned to Waianapanapa after an hour at RSB, with most folks opting
to shower, change, snack, and relax.  Mark and I decided to hike the
coastal trail to the Hana Airport, and this took us about an hour.
Along the way, we passed a couple of fishermen, a rocky terrace that
appeared to be a grave, and a benchmark stamped into a lava rock.  A sign
on the trail directed us to the "Airport Exit" and the trail emerged at
the end of airport runway, unprotected by a fence or wall.  As we stood
there, we saw a plane heading for a landing.  We watched it touch down, do
a u-turn, and then taxi to the small single-story building that serves as
the Hana Airport terminal.

In about five minutes, Mark and I completed the walk to the terminal.  The
pilots of the just-landed plane had already unloaded its cargo, which
included stacks of the Honolulu Advertiser and a box of pizza destined for
the Hana Ranch Store. We chatted briefly with the terminal manager, a
low-key Hawaiian bla-lah, who asked us how our hike had gone.  After
watching the plane take off, Mark and I headed back to Waianapanapa,
meeting Jason and Pat along the way.  The two-hour hike was a good
workout and relaxing at the same time--just what I needed to end the day.

On the way back, I heard Gordon announce on the walkie-talkie that dinner
would be ready at 6 pm.  Noticing that it was nearing 5:30, I picked up
the pace a bit and decided against a visit to Waianapanapa Cave.  Instead,
I picked up a change of clothes from my tent, and then hustled over to
the cabin where Jackie and Jamie were staying.  I took a warm shower
there (that felt wonderful), changed, and  headed over to the dinner
cabin for kaukau (leftover teri chicken and curry stew--ono!).

The dinner cabin was the gathering place for the 35 of us, with folks
partaking of relaxing libations, good food, fun games (uno), interesting
entertainment (highlighted by Larry's dancing and harmonica playing), and
animated conversations.  I walked back to my tent at 10 p.m. and had
another quiet, restful night of sleep.

Sunday was the day we said aloha to Waianapanapa.  The game plan:  eat
breakfast; pack up our gear; clean up the cabins; group A would backtrack
along the Hana Highway to Nahiku to do the hike to Hanawi Falls; group B
would drive ahead to Kipahulu to Oheo Gulch for swimming and hiking;
Groups A & B would regroup at Kipahulu in the early afternoon then
continue on past Kaupo for a pit stop at the Tedeschi Winery in
Ulupalakua.

The above plan worked well.  I went with group B, having previously done
the Hanawi Falls hike and wanting to stick with the J&J girls.  The drive
from Waianapanapa to Kipahulu took about 30 minutes (Ralph did a
fantastic job of driving on the trip) and when we arrived
at the Oheo Gulch parking area, we were almost the first ones there.
Mabel suggested we head makai to the pools first and later head mauka. If
we flip-flopped the order, said Mabel, then the makai pools would be
flooded with tourists on our return. Made sense to me.

With J&J, Mabel, Cera, Carole, the kids, and others, I spent at least an
hour and a half swimming and taking it easy at the pools near the ocean.
A highlight was watching Carole jump off a rock into the lower pool.
This wasn't easy for her since she has personal demons associated with
rocks and water to reckon with.  But she did it.  Nice job!

Wanting some exercise, I shouldered my pack and headed up the trail into
the valley to Waimoku Falls.  Ralph, Bev, Jason, Joe, Ruby, Deetsie, and
others had earlier hiked ahead. The trail was dry most of the way, and a
good deal of its upper section is a boardwalk thru a large bamboo forest.
Waimoku, a 400-footer, was impressive, and I spent a few minutes taking in
its beauty.  I headed up the trail to the falls on the left before
Waimoku, and partway down I ran into Ralph, Bev, Deetsie, and Jason, who'd
visited the left-falls and were heading down.  I turned around at that
point and hiked out with them.

Jason, on the way out of the valley, went off to explore a side stream
leading to a lesser-known waterfall.  There he saw three pot-smoking guys
who shed their clothes for some naked swimming.  Not surprisingly, he
didn't join them for a toke or a dip.

Meanwhile, Ralph, Bev, and Deetsie stopped at the top of 200-foot Makahiku
Falls for lunch.  I joined them briefly and then headed back down to our
van, where I found that members of Group A had arrived after doing the
Hanawi Falls hike.  After another half hour of resting and eating lunch,
we all boarded our vehicles--now three vans and a car--to drive on the
rought road to Kaupo then Tedeschi Winery.  Several miles past Kaupo, at
a bridge crossing over a rocky gulch, Carmen's van pulled over and Carmen
and most of her passengers deboarded for a middle-of-nowhere potty
break.  In  contrast, no one in our van felt the need to answer nature's
call.  What's up with that?

The road on the way to Ulupalakua is dry and rocky, akin to the Makapuu
area on Oahu, but the roadway is narrower, rougher, and at times
meandering like a snake as if the road builders were drunk during
construction.  In our van, a battle of the songs began, with the kids
singing a can-can tune and Carole and Jackie belting out the itsy-bitsy
spider song.  The singers were having fun, no doubt.

We stopped for 45 minutes at Tedeschi, with some folks partaking of free
wine samples offered by the winery staff.  We then drove over to Joyce's
house in Makawao, where we cleaned up for the flight home.  After gassing
up the vans in Kahului, we headed to the airport for the flight home.

Jackie, Jamie, and I had reservations for the 7:25 Hawaiian Air flight to
Honolulu but we decided at the last minute to stay on extra day on Maui.
We grabbed a rental car, a room in the Maui Surf, and ate a sumptuous meal
of crispy chicken, 5-seasoning roast duck, and egg foo yong at a Chinese
restaurant.

On Monday, we ate at the hotel buffet (eggs and sausage!), then drove up
to Haleakala to spend the morning there.  We stopped at the visitor's
center, where I inquired about open spots in the cabins in the coming
month, and among the open dates were some on the Memorial Day weekend.
Anyone interested should call up the visitor's center (572-4400) between 1
and 3 pm to check for open dates.  We then drove up and parked in the lot
by the Sliding Sands trailhead (the road to the actual summit was closed
to vehicles).  We cruised around the area, taking a ton of photos,
including many of the crater's interior, free of clouds.

After a half hour at the top, we headed back down, stopping at the
visitor's center one more time (lua break), then on down to Kahului Costco
where we dropped off five rolls of film for the 1-hour quickie service.
We then ate lunch (McDonald's), and drove up thru rustic Wailuku town to
Iao Needle, where we hiked around the paved loop trail, snapping more
photos as we went.  For those who've never visited Iao, its significance
is well-documented, particularly as the 1790 battle site between Maui
defenders and the invading army of Kamehameha.  So many warriors died in
the fighting that their corpses blocked the flow of Iao Stream, leading to
the naming of the area as Kepaniwai, literally "damming of the waters."

>From Iao, we drove northwest on route 340 (Kahekili Hwy) in search of the
trailhead of the Waihee Ridge trail.  About a 20-minute drive from Wailuku
got us there, but since it was late in the afternoon, we didn't have time
to hike it.  Maybe next time.

We returned to Kahului, picked up the photos at Costco (Jackie has 'em
now so don't ask me to see them), dropped off the rental car, and checked
in for the 6 pm flight back to Honolulu.

Things I learned from this trip:

--With a big group and spotty weather, expect plans to change often.

--The weather, especially in the Hana area, is a big factor in daily
  planning.

--The more walkie-talkies the better.

--Even with walkie-talkies, communication isn't a sure thing.

--Hiking leisurely and taking it easy has its place.

--I'll never go hungry with this group.

--I'll never volunteer to drive a van on the Hana Highway (so don't ever
  ask me!).

--Always bring duct tape.

Aloha and pau,

--DKT