Kipapa Windward pioneered -- 2/3/2001

Jason Sunada, Pat Rorie, Laredo Murray, and I were successful in reaching the summit of the Ko'olaus from Waiahole Valley today. Since the topping out point was quite near the terminus of the Kipapa trail, I will refer to the ridge we climbed as Kipapa Windward.

As I mentioned in a recent OHE post, Jason and I pushed partway up the ridge last Sunday. What took us two hours a week ago required only 30 minutes today. What a difference a swath made.

Once we reached last Sunday's stopping point, we were on virgin ridge. Laredo, shirtless and with hair dyed partially red, jumped out into the front and bravely ascended through uluhe, an assortment of native plants, clidemia, and the like. The most challenging sections were 1) a contorted climb around/through an ohia tree that spanned a narrow section of ridge, and 2) a steep scramble up a loose rock section just above the tree. Cables and/or rerouting might help for future
ascents/descents.

The critical area was between the 1500 and 2000-ft level where we saw very closely packed contour lines on the topo map, a red-flag zone meaning very steep stuff. Yes, it was steep but never cable-steep, and with plenty of grunting, twisting, ducking, and crawling, we made progress. At one point during the steep section we found ourselves tunneling through a dark corridor formed by uluhe, an interesting albeit less than pleasant time.

After the 2000-ft point, Pat assumed the lead and powered us up the ridge. This section was fantastic, with more open ridge conditions so we could see the hogback ahead as well as the array of steep, magnificent spurs left and right that stretched and strained up to the crest. We passed plenty of native vegetation, including loulu palms, lapalapa, olapa, kopiko, and others I can't name. Yes, we damaged native plants as we climbed and later when we headed back down. There was no malice in our damage.

At 11:45, 3.5 hours after we set our from our vehicles, we summited at a wind-whipped pu'u at the 2640 elevation level. Shouts rang out and arms were thrust skyward, save for Jason, who is not the shouting or hand-thrusting kind. We also exchanged handshakes, Jason a bit begrudgingly, to mark the summit acquistion.

In an adjacent ravine to the south (our left) was a grove of sugi pines where the remains of an ancient cabin (sometimes referred to as Uncle Tom's cabin) lay in shambles. We descended toward the ravine, hopped onto the Ko'olau summit trail, and hiked to south side of the pine grove to hunker down by the cabin ruins for lunch. From our lunchspot, the Kipapa summit was about ten minutes away.

Clouds had enclosed the area by this time and a chilly wind prompted us to put on raincoats or windbreakers to stay warm. We spent half an hour resting and eating, and perhaps would have lingered longer if we had warmer, sunnier conditions. A brief rainshower prompted Jason to open an umbrella and ultimately the wet stuff hastened our departure.

The return down the ridge back to Waiahole was one of the great descents I've experienced. After 15 minutes or so of down-hiking, we were below the cloud line and from there the ridge dropped in fantastic fashion like a steep escalator toward the valley floor. There were often precipitous dropoffs left and right but since the ridge never narrowed to dangerous proportions and since we were surrounded by ample vegetation that provided security, I never felt in danger. It was actually quite enjoyable.

The rain had made the way slick, but we took care not to make a bad error that might lead to "the plunge." In all, we needed about 90 minutes to reach the ditch trail from the summit (more handshakes exchanged) and another 30 minutes to hike back to our cars. By 3 p.m. we were on Kam Hwy headed back to home and warm showers and meals.

Pu'u o Kila trail maintenance 2/18/2001

Kahana is broad. Kahana is green. Kahana is also home to Pu'u o Kila,
which we hiked to today. Our main objective was to clear a
loop route the club uses to acquire Kila's summit, and 17 turned out to
tend to the task. The members-only club hike will be on Sunday, March 4.

From the hunter's check-in where we started, Kila is visible toward
the back of the massive maw that is Kahana. Jay, Dusty, Roger, Mabel, and
Connie crossed the dam and headed back on the valley trail to tend to the
left-hand ridge. Meanwhile, a dozen of us headed up the watertank road
then continued down to the stream crossing by the bamboo grove to
eventually reach the right-hand (north) ridge.

Our group encountered a hunter and his dogs by the junction with the start
of the Kila trail. A dark-skinned local guy, he was friendly
and later joined us for posthike refreshments.

The route to Kila was overgrown with uluhe, which wasn't surprising since
Kahana is quite rainy and the trail likely sees light traffic, if any at
all. While our group worked our way up the ridge, we kept in
walkie-talkie contact with Jay, Dusty, and Mabel of the left-hand ridge
team. While I'm respectful in my radio conversations with Mabel, I'm
prone to firing (friendly) insults at Jay and Dusty, and
vice-versa (though I'll admit I'm usually the instigator). Jay, whose
group was using a hedge trimmer, volunteered me to carry it out after they
were done using it. Of course, I balked at the suggestion and rained down
barbs on the glib Mr. Feldman.

Later after lunch, Dusty, in response to jovial hooting and hollering I
was doing while descending from Kila's summit, barked into his
walkie-talkie, "Shaddap and start working!" Dusty has taken to
addressing me as "wimp," especially when I express my dismay for hauling
the hedge trimmer. But it's all in fun (you are just kidding, right,
Dusty?).

Even with all the walkie-talkie insults, we actually did some work. The
majority of the right-hand ridge dozen reached Kila's summit before noon,
slumping down to eat lunch there. Meanwhile, the left-hand team members
had yet to arrive, claiming heavy uluhe overgrowth was slowing their
progress. Via walkie-talkie, we encouraged them to climb to the summit
and leave what was left for our larger group, but Jay and company, perhaps
spurred on by pride, ego and/or the possibility of insults from our group,
stuck to the task. Jay also requested that we dispatch members of our team
down the ridge to help clear, and, ever the loyal helpers, we responded to
his request. :-)

For those who've never hiked to Kila, be prepared for very steep
ascending & descending up to and down from the summit. Ample
trees and roots are available for handholds but dislodged rocks can be a
hazard, especially on the descent of the upper part of the left-hand
ridge.

Pu'u o Kila information

Using the topo map software from delorme.com, George Shoemaker emailed
the following info about the route to Pu'u o Kila that we worked on back in 2001 in
Kahana Valley.  Thanks, George. 

• Terrain distance from parking area to Pu'u to parking area: 4.36 miles.
• Elevation: 197 ft to 1362 ft to 197 ft.
• Avg Grade: 14
• Climb Distance: 1.64 miles.
• Elevation gain from base to summit: 1,117 ft in one mile

Heroes of Kahana

Lots of hiking trails in Kahana Valley. Here is a link to a story from 2001 about some young guys who did a heroic deed to help some hikers in distress in Kahana.

Best Hawaii Hiking, Backpacking, and Camping Books

I have hiked just about every trail on Oahu and many trails on the other Hawaiian Islands. Plus, I am a writer and avid reader. As such, I have developed a good sense for what are the best books about hiking, backpacking, and camping in Hawaii. Here is the list.

• For hiking on Oahu, the top tome is Stuart Ball's The Hikers Guide to Oahu.  When I first began hiking in 1993, I carried this book (or photocopied pages from this book) with me on just about every trail I hiked.  I even bought a second copy, one for my backpack while hiking and another for my home library.  Best book on Oahu hiking, bar none. 

• For backpacking in Hawaii, Stuart Ball has also written the primo book: Backpacker's Guide to Hawaii. Ditto my comments above buth for backpacking.  While it is true that there are not a slew of backpacking opportunities in Hawaii, for the outings that exist, Ball has written the most detailed and comprehensive guide.  This is a must have for anyone who wants to backpack in Hawaii, especially the little-known routes like the Koolau Summit Trail.

• For camping in Hawaii, the best book is Camping Hawaii: A Complete Guide by Richard McMahon. This is a great resource for camping in the Islands.

• For hiking on the other islands, Stuart Ball is again the kingpin author with his book Hikers Guide to the  the  Hawaiian Islands.  No one has matched Ball's comprehensiveness for hiking on the other major Hawaiian Islands, so this book is a good resource.  While not extensively thorough, this book covers the major trails in the islands, with good pictures as well.

• For the botanically inclined, an excellent book about trailside flora is John Hall's A Hikers Guide to Trailside Plants in Hawaii.  Hall is a retired University of Hawaii professor and scientist and a legendary hiker.  A great read. 
• While not a comprehensive trail guide, Peter Caldwell's Adventurer's Hawaii  is a good read for those who are looking for recollections of great outdoor adventures in Hawaii.

Hawaii Hiking Gear -- Top Three

Assuming you have the basics like a daypack/backpack and shoes/boots with good tread, what other gear would be beneficial for someone hiking a trail in Hawaii? Here are my top three:

1.  Camelbak hydration system.  Hawaii is in the tropics, hence warm weather, hence the need for very good hydration.  A dehydrated hiker is an unhappy and unsteady hiker, so it is important to drink fluids constantly, especially in the Hawaiian climate, where a typical day on the trail will be in the low to mid-80s F even warmer in the summer months.  Since I am a big guy, I require a lot of fluids; hence my system of choice is the camelback 100 oz reservoir which I fill and then slip into my daypack.  Cost is $24 from Amazon.com.
2. Gaiters.  Hawaiian trails can get quite brushy and overgrown, so gaiters help protect the legs, prevent dirt and brush from getting into shoes/boots, and keep shoelaces from becoming undone by trailside bushes and brush.  An inexpensive pair can be purchased from Amazon for about $12.
3. Hiking pole/staff.  I used to have problems with sore feet and knees and even had a bout with plantar faciitis.  The solution for me was to hike with a hiking pole.  What the pole helped me with is balance and cushioning.  A hiking pole, which can be cumbersome when trails are overgrown, is nonetheless a blessing for most hiking trails in the island, especially when conditions are muddy and trails are steep.  There are all kinds of hiking poles on the market but an inexpensive one can be purchased online for less than $20.

Yes, there are all kinds of  gadgets and gear available for hikers, but the three I have mentioned here will help make your Hawaii hiking experience a better one.

Luaalaea Ridge, 1st ascent

One of the benefits of participating in miconia hunts with the Sierra Club is the opportunity to bash around in areas not often explored. In the past year, via SC miconia hunts, I've done a bunch of bashing around in the back of Manoa Valley. One area that caught my interest is to the east of Luaalaea Falls, specifically a spur ridge that extends to the summit, topping out about midway between Konahuanui and Mount Olympus.

Today, Scott "Saxman" Villiger, Wing Ng, and I gave this spur ridge a go. Starting at around 8:30 a.m. at the Manoa Falls trailhead, Scott and I succeeded in reaching the summit in three hours. Wing was somewhere downridge from us. Not sure if he topped out. Am sure that he'll post a report.

Anyway, to get to our spur, we crossed Waihi Stream right where the Manoa Falls trail starts then ambled around in a jumbled area of large ferns. We then picked up the trail leading to Luaalaea Falls and followed it for 10-15 minutes. At a spot that looked as good as any for heading up, we did. Put a double ribbon there for Wing, who had dropped back behind Scott and I somewhere.

Scott and I then began climbing, mostly thru scattered guava. Dry weather in the valley in the past week or two was beneficial, for the ground underfoot was dry. Could see that the slopes would be muddy in wet weather, so I was glad for the parched state of things. After 15 minutes of climbing, we hit occasional patches of uluhe. We lucked out by finding pig trails that skirted or bulldozed right thru the uluhe. Those pigs are good for something. Mahalo na pua'a.

As we continued to climb, we came upon a ten by ten foot clearing on the ridgeline. Planted in the clearing were two to three dozen pakalolo plants, most no more than a foot tall. My altimeter watch indicated the elevation was ~1100 feet. Scott and I were amused but did nothing with the plants. We left plenty of bootprints in the patch, to let the plants' owner know someone had been there. Heh.

More and more, uluhe became a bothersome and energy-zapping barrier as we climbed beyond the pakalolo clearing. We also encountered some steep, narrow dikes, but there were plenty of small trees to grab to help us ascend. One of the tougher segments of the day was a steep area of overhead uluhe at around the 1600-foot level. Our progress was painfully slow there. I even had thoughts of abandoning the summit try due to exhaustion. A well-timed rest break, hydration, and a protein bar helped to nix negative thoughts and reestablish optimism.

The morning and early afternoon, by the way, were perfect for heading to beach. However, the clear skies, piercing sun, and light breezes weren't ideal for climbing a trail-less ridge in the Koolaus. In short, we persevered.

Caught a break when the ridge started to level off and broaden and the vegetation barrier lessened. Uluhe was always there but instead of overhead stuff, it was knee-level or less and not overly thick. In a word, relief.

Scott and I reached the summit at just past 11:30 at an elevation of 2480 feet, sayeth the topo map. We topped out at a grassy bowl along the crest where on past hikes from Konahuanui to Olympus some of us have stopped to eat lunch. Today, we had super clear views to windward and leeward, and we enjoyed the visual reverie as we sat down for a 15-minute lunch stop.

On another day, we probably would have stayed longer at the summit, but Scott had to be back at his car at 1:30-ish because he had go home to shower and change to attend a late afternoon gig at Aloha Stadium. So after our short lunch at the bowl, we packed up and headed south along the summit, my legs feeling wobbly due to the rugged climb up Luaalaea Ridge. The plan was to descend the trail down the ridge we've named Manoa Middle and we reached the junction with this trail after a 15-minute hike along the summit.

The descent of Manoa Middle was tougher and slower than I anticipated because the route is badly overgrown. In some spots the trail has just about been reclaimed by the vegetation. We came upon some places that looked trampled down by hikers but I'd guess that human traffic along this ridge is next to nil.

After a bunch of stumbles and trips due to overgrown conditions coupled with fatigue, we reached the rope trail down to Waiakeakua Stream. Even that trail is overgrown and only a few ribbons saved us from completely losing our way on the steep descent.

Once we reached the trail along Waiakeakua Stream, we were able to pick up the pace. We stopped for a couple minutes so I could take a dreamed-about plunge in the clear, cool pool just below the the Gladstone Wright memorial stone. Feeling re-energized, I hiked out the rest of the way to cars with Scott, arriving there at 1:40.

Scott zipped off in his car for home. In the meantime, I took a couple minutes to jot a note on a piece of paper to let Wing know what we'd done and that we were out and gone. Stuck the note under his driver's side wiper, then drove off, stopping at a nearby convenience store to purchase a 2-liter bottle of Diet Pepsi and some choco-chip cookies. Consumed all this, plus a later purchased apple fritter from 7-11, before arriving at the Kaneohe homestead. Hit the spot.

A good day of hiking. Great workout. Nice views. Good to hike with Scott. Wing, too.

Hope others on OHE had a chance to get out and be outdoors today.

--dkt