Olomana Circumnavigation

Many have hiked the three peaks of Olomana but few have hiked around the peaks.  I did this hike on 2 November 2020 with Bob Tyson.   We started at 9 a.m. at the head of the Ohana Bike Trail (OBT) on Old Kalanianaole (pictured below and as green star on the map above).

 

 

We hiked the OBT only for a couple minutes, if that, and then headed left on an obscure trail that led us to a dry gulch that sits between the OBT and the Hawaii Youth Correctional Facility. We hiked a ribbon-marked "trail" in the gulch and then left the gulch to ascend briefly to a water tank (see map below).

 

We passed to the left of the tank and then commenced a climb of a ridge we named after fellow hiker Ed Mersino (hence Mersino Ridge).  We then came upon a point on the ridge that intersected with the Olomana Alo trail (created by Joe Bussen).  Courtesy of Joe, there is even a sign there.

Not long past the sign, the high point of the ridge is acquired and then we veered right to descend Mersino in the general direction of the Olomana ridge trail (ORT).  Hiking to the ORT was our next objective.  Thanks to the recent work of Ed Mersino, Bob Tyson, Dave Johnson, and others, we reached the ORT at a significant junction (map point B) in maybe fifteen minutes.

At that point, instead of beginning the climb of ORT to Peak 1, we instead hiked down ORT toward its start point.

Well before reaching the golf course road where the ORT commences, we veered left at an obscure junction to begin hiking a route called Olomana Express (tbh, we got off track while searching for O Express, as evidenced by forked lines on the map).  

We eventually found Point C and commenced the hike of Olomana Express, which was in hikeable condition thanks to recent work by HTMC trail clearers.  Note that OE is not often hiked and could have become overgrown in the time after our hike.

Olomana Express eventually connected to Old Government Road (map point D), which we veered left on to begin ascending to the crest of Anianinui Ridge (if we had veered right on OGC, we would have come out on the Royal Hawaiian Golf Course).

The way was clear and open thanks to the work and riding of mountain bikers.  About halfway up the grinding climb, we left the mountain bike trail and followed a much less used trail that crested atop Anianinui.  This route is called Olomana Hope (pronounced Ho-Pay).

Bob (pictured below) and I took a lengthy rest break once we had topped out on Anianinui.  We were glad that most of the climbing for the day was almost complete.

After our rest, we continued up Anianinui toward the backside of Olomana's 3rd peak.  

Before reaching the peak (see above), we veered right on a trail used most recently by mountain bikers that descended to the Ohana Bike Trail at junction they call Renegade (Map point E).

The rest of the hike went quickly at that point and Bob and I completed the 6.75 mile circumnavigation before 2 p.m. (so 4:48:50 according to GAIA GPS which I used to track our route).

Ahuimanu Ridge via Woodridge Park (Kahaluu)

 

I hiked this windward Oahu ridge with some friends the past three weekends. It's not very long nor perilous but it is something few folks have hiked. Along for our most recent trek were my brother Alika Turner, Steve Poor, and Scott Villiger. We met at Woodridge park (adjacent to the intersection of Hui Io Street and Alawiki Street) in Ahuimanu (or, more familiarly, Kahaluu) and followed a not-oft-used trail at the end of Hui Io.

There is a narrow hole in a fence to get thru and then the trail becomes more pronounced, at least for a short distance. It seems to me that this more-pronounced trail, because of its width and beaten down demeanor, was made by and for dirt bikes and/or quads but we saw nor heard no sign of these while we hiked. Eventually, the dirtbike/quad trail veered off the ridge and down into Ahuimanu Valley (to the right of the ridge we were on) and we did not follow it and instead opted to stick to the ridge, the trail along which became more of a non-trail at times.

This meant trail work for us, so out came our cutting tools, my being a jumbo pair of Fiskars loppers, which are well able to sever some decent-sized strawberry guava limbs that were in abundance on our route of the day.

Along the way as we hiked and worked on opening the trail, we had some good views of Ahuimanu Valley to our right and of the teeth of Kalahaku, a couple of which I had visited with Dr. Gene Robinson some eons ago (circa 1998) and which have been visited up close by Kenji Saito and friends in 2014 and previous to that by another group, which included a hiker who called the negotiation of the teeth and the ridge beyond it as "the most dangerous hike I have ever done to date."

And while I would not characterize the hike we did as "the most dangerous" I've ever done, there was one part of it that requires more focus and care, that being the last several yards prior to a large near-vertical rockface which we designated as our we-will-go-no-further point.

As far as I know, no one has climbed this ridge beyond the point where we stopped, but I do know that Pete Clines, in 2010, ascended an adjacent spur that intersected with our ridge higher up. He eventually pushed his way through to the Koolau summit ridge and exited via the Aiea Ridge trail.

We were nowhere near ambitious on this day and instead we turned our attention to a trail we had carved out and marked out down into the valley to the left. This is the same valley where the Ahuimanu Trail is. I led a Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club hike of the Ahuimanu Trail in November 2017.

The plan is to use part of the ridge route we hiked today along with the new valley section as an addition to the club's Ahuimanu trail route. I have already made that proposal to the club and am awaiting its thumbs-up or thumbs-down.

Bay Bum Ridge (Moanalua Valley north/left ridge)

The Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club christened this route as "Bay Bum Ridge" and I am unaware of the hows and whys of the naming but Steve Poor and I hiked this on a recent Saturday, the one where Hawaii was in an uproar due to a missile launch from North Korea that never was.

Actually, the text message that went awry came out a few minutes past eight, and at that time I was at home in Kaneohe getting ready for the hike, which was supposed to begin at 9 a.m. at the end of Ala Aolani Street. I'll admit that I was a bit alarmed upon seeing the text (see below) but when the expected civil defense warning sirens never came (at least not where I live), I figured it was a false alarm or a hoax. It turns out that if was the former.

In any case, the hike was on and I headed to Moanalua Valley where I met Steve, who was oblivious to all the chaos. We did see some hikers beating a hasty retreat out of the valley and upon questioning them, they said they were military types who were ordered back to base as a result of the missile-threat-that-never-was.

As for the hike of Bay Bum Ridge (Steve said it might be a play on Bay Rum Ridge, which if so, still would warrant a how and/or why explanation about the naming), we hiked up the valley road until reaching the fourth bridge. At that point, a trail heads up on the left thru a bamboo grove (trailhead pic below).

After ascending the bamboo section, we broke out in the open at a powerline tower at which point the trail veered rightward to pick up a spur ridge, which likely was the aforementioned Bay Bum. The club recently hiked the trail (in December 2017), so it was in good shape and well cleared (despite not appearing so in the pic below).

Bay Bum eventually intersects the north/left ridge of Moanalua Valley at a prominent Norfolk (or Cook Island?) pine grove. Starting at the end of Ala Aolani, speed hikers can likely reach this grove via Bay Bum in an hour, but Steve and I were not in speed-hiking mode on this day (plus we're old--me, 59, and Steve, 70). Thus we took a more pedestrian, botanical pace (Steve loves to talk about flora along the trail, including the healthy koa tree pictured below).

Once we arrived at the pine grove, we enjoyed some nice views, including one of upper Moanalua, a prominent feature of which is Moanalua middle ridge, the route of choice nowadays to reach the Haiku Stairs/Stairway to Heaven (see pic below).

Below: View down into Moanalua Valley from the pine grove

After completing our banquet of eye-kaukau, we sat down and had some opu-kaukau at a shaded spot amongst the pines. During lunch, Steve played his version of the Poor Family Anthem, which he recorded on his phone with friends to the melody of Auld Lang Syne. A memorable line: Poor but not in hope!

From the pine grove, we headed down (makai) the north ridge, following a well-cleared trail and enjoying ample views, including one of the Waianae range in the distance (below).

Eventually, in an hour or so, the trail transitioned to a jeep road which we followed until we reached a junction, heavily marked with ribbons, where we left the north ridge and descended a trail down to the basketball court at the park at the end of Ala Aolani. From the park, Steve eyed a large rockface on the side of north ridge and expressed an interest in hiking up to said face to check it out for rock climbing, an avocation Steve is fond of. But such a hike would not be on this day but another, perhaps on an upcoming weekend, so stay tuned.

Completed--The Poamoho Southern Preserve fence

Patrick Rorie (prorieandmnt@GMAIL.COM) says:

The fence crew hired by the State NARS has finished installing a fence along the entire section of the Ko'olau Summit Trail (KST) between Pu'u Pauao and the pu'us near the Schofied-Waikane terminus, considered by some to be the Kalalau/Na Pali Coast Trail of Oahu. The fence is a terrible eyesore, and panels have been placed where the natural cliff of the contour could have been utilized to keep pigs out. Using the natural cliffs would have saved tax payers money and lessened the visual blight of the fence. Instead, in typical State government fashion, the State NARS used panels along every inch of the trail so that they will receive the same funding amount for the next exclosure. The unnecessary panels should be removed to lesson the visual blight of the fence along this magnificent stretch of the KST. On a positive note, this stretch of the KST has been cleared and regraded, making it easier to hike. Please take a look at the 5 attached photos.

A question about a plant

Keith Palmer (krpalmer@juno.com) queried:

Can someone please tell me what shrub / tree this is? Found on Puu O Hulu Kai. I SHOULD be able to find it easily online but not having any luck. Thank you

If anyone knows, please contact Keith. Mahalo.

The fencing of upper Schofield trail

It's been some years since I last hiked the Schofield trail. In fact, I'm uncertain if I've hiked it in the current century.

I know I hiked it in the previous century, including one time I, along with others from the Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club, hiked up the Poamoho trail, crossed along the crest on the Koolau Summit Trail, and descended Schofield. That was in 1999..

A couple decades later, the upper part of the trail is now fenced, as evidenced by the pics below, which were provided courtesy of Patrick Rorie in 2017 via OHE-L mailing list

Regarding the fencing of the Schofield Trail. I'm not sure if I like it or not. As such, I suppose I'm sitting on the proverbial fence regarding the fence. The fencing, by the way, is an initiative of the Koolau Mountains Watershed Partnership, one objective of which is to "protect the watershed against incipient invasive weeds and feral animals" [source].

Kawiwi to Kaala to Waialua -- by Kapa Reero

From the Oahu Hiking Enthusiasts Archives
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 09:48:03 -1000
From: Kapa Reero (kapareero@lycos.com)
Subject: Kawiwi-Ka'ala-Waialua

Did a great hike with a dude named Lawrence Muredo on Sunday, March 11. Dayle Turner and other super hikers had the right idea, but less than ideal conditions kept them from completing the entire jaunt in November of 2000. This write-up is not meant to shame them. Lawrence and I had the luxury of picking a perfect day to do the traverse.

The weather? A drop-dead gorgeous day! Pleasant temperatures, gentle trade wind breeze, both mountain ranges (Ko'olau, Waianae) completely clear of cloud cover.

We met on Farrington Hwy in front of Waialua High at 8 am and carpooled to Waianae Valley. Following final preps, Muredo and me set out on foot from the Waianae Kai dirt parking area at 9:12 am and gained elevation via a paved road. After entering a scrub haole koa forest, the two of us meandered about the lower environs until reaching the base of the main ridge leading to the summit of Pu'u Kawiwi. En route to the summit, we enjoyed steep exposed rock scrambling, and Lawrence snapped a few photos as well (photo at left by Pete Clines, 2010).

At approx. 11 am the two of us topped out on Kawiwi's apex, sat down for a water break and gazed at the prominent surrounding geographical features. To the east lay massive Mount Ka'ala (our lunch time goal), and to the north, Ohikilolo's triangular peak, as well as the beautiful sheer fluted cliffs below the peak, caught our attention.

With a significant chunk of territory still to cover, Muredo and I continued the trek at 11:12. On the way to the narrow dike, we paused to look down at a dozen goats contouring toward Kawiwi's main ridge. While on the dike itself, Muredo snapped a couple photos, and, farther ahead, the two of us experienced "the excitement of getting there" as we carefully negotiated boulders shaped like giant teeth (molars). An ironwood forest came next, and then a respectable climb to the pinnacle of No Name peak.  [Photo at right by August Smith, 2010]

From No Name, we eventually dropped down to the junction with Kumaipo (an ancient Hawaiian trail), but remained on the crest of Kamaileunu Ridge and ascended to "Three Poles". A short distance above "Three Poles", Lawrence and I encountered a military dude and conversed with him briefly.
Pressing on, the two of us ascended steeply via a series of ropes/cables. Upon reaching a small clearing on the edge of the Ka'ala plateau/bog, we met two friendly gentlemen who had gained Ka'ala's summit by using the Dupont Trail. Dan (one of the men) told us to be on the lookout for lobeliads in bloom, and, sure enough, we spotted several just inside the Ka'ala NAR. Muredo even took a picture of one of the plants. As we traipsed along the boardwalk, I halted on several occasions to bring various native shrubs to Muredo's attention. He was very impressed (sarcasm).

Finally, at 2:21 pm, Lawrence and I arrived at the grassy overlook just outside the FAA radar installation and proceeded to consume a late lunch.

During the break we were treated to a magnificent vista of the northshore, the Ko'olau foothills above Haleiwa, the multicolored tracts above Mokuleia, the Wahiawa plain and most of the Ko'olau Range. The white wake of waves visible off the northshore gave proof that surf was definately up!

At 3:08 pm we reluctantly departed the overlook and headed for Dupont. Prior to reaching the Mount Ka'ala Road/Dupont junction, six military men passed us having come up the Dupont Trail.


The leg down to Waialua went pretty much without incident. Muredo and me delighted in the superb transition from native forest to dry-land forest to cattle pasture, all accentuated by the lovely afternoon, characterized by abundant sunshine and blue sky. However, we did get stopped by a ranch owner not far from the long semipaved road leading to Farrington Hwy. Fortunately, the man recognized Lawrence by his unusual hair color (they do business together), and they carried on a favorable conversation. In the end, the ranch owner bid us a friendly farewell but said to call him BEFORE we set foot on his land to hike.

At 5:30 pm Lawrence and I entered my car and immediated sped off for the Leeward Coast. About an hour later, we found ourselves in Waianae Valley. I waited to make sure Muredo's truck started then followed him to Waianae Town. Instead of making a left onto Farrington Hwy, I proceeded straight to Pokai Bay Beach Park where I witnessed a nice sun set.

== Kapa