A Kawainui Campout --By Kapa Reero -- 3 Jan 2001

This is from the OHE (Oahu Hiking Enthusiasts) archives and is written by Kapa Reero kapareero@lycos.com), an intrepid hiker and backpacker. It was posted to OHE on 3 Jan 2001. Here is what Kapa had to say:

Tucked away in the boonies, the Kawainui Trail is located in the leeward Ko'olau foothills many miles above the northshore town of Hale'iwa. Regarding Kawainui, Stuart Ball writes..."The circular pool at the end is the most beautiful one on the island. It is also one of the largest and is great for swimming."*

Every Labor Day weekend, members of HTM used to camp at Kawainui until access was prohibited. Prior to New Year's weekend 2000, I had never camped there, so I decided to go for it as a way to escape the noise and smoke of the New Year's fireworks. With Palama Uka closed and access to the trail limited to the Sierra Club/Boy Scouts/Audubon Society, I had to find another route to Kawainui. I decided to hike "over the top" of the Ko'olau Mountain Range, starting the journey in La'ie on Saturday, December 30 at 8:08 a.m. Saturday was a beauty weatherwise - an abundance of blue sky and sunshine, clear summit ridge due to light and variable winds, temperatures in the low 80's.

After tramping approx. 6 miles, I reached the Ko'olau Summit Trail (KST) at 10:27 a.m., dropped my heavy pack and proceeded to the La'ie foxhole to rest and enjoy the terrific vista of Kahuku and the La'ie coastline to windward. Pressing on, I traveled south along the KST for half a mile to the marshy region surrounding the Kawailoa flat-topped mound (obtained a liter of water from the pool below the tiny waterfall - barely a trickle).

At 11:11 a.m. I found myself a top the mound (elev. 2,360 ft) consuming lunch and gaining pleasure from the outstanding leeward view of the Wai'anae Range and northshore to Ka'ena Point in the distance, as well as the verdant wilderness stretching out for miles directly in front of me. Truely, O'ahu's backcountry. I changed into long pants and then at 11:45 a.m. started down the Kawailoa Trail, a graded contour footpath built in 1934 by the Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC). Of Kawailoa, Ball writes..."Kawailoa is a bear of a hike through extremely wild and rugged terrain.

The Kawailoa Ridge Trail receives little or no maintenance. As a result, it is heavily overgrown with uluhe ferns and Clidemia in the lower and middle sections.

Although basically graded, the trail has many uneven spots because of erosion and landslides. Watch your footing all the time. Expect to fall down and get muddy and wet."*

Nevertheless, Ball also writes..."Up La'ie, along the summit, and down Kawailoa makes a superb Ko'olau traverse."*

During the Kawailoa segment of the journey to Kawainui, I paused to look at tall loulu palms dotting the slopes of a leeward Ko'olau ridge to the north on the other side of the gully containing Kamananui Stream, startled a feral pig, and lost the trail a couple of times.

At 2:47 p.m. I rejoiced upon emerging from the overgrown footpath and soon reached a dirt road characterized by a long series of ups and downs. Despite the ups and downs, I enjoyed the vista from the road of the steep, verdant leeward slopes of the northern Ko'olaus in the distance and the pleasant combination of Norfolk Island pines, tall eucalyptus, and Koa trees which parallel the thoroughfare. However, due to the high humidity, I had to fight off a nasty leg cramp.

Once I reached Pa'ala'a Uka Pupukea Road beyond the forest reserve boundary at 3:36 p.m., I followed the military road to the junction with Kawailoa Road. Continuing on Pa'ala'a, I descended into and then climbed out of a gully to broad Pu'u Kapu, an active Army landing zone (LZ). Leaving Kapu behind, I dropped down into Kawainui Gulch, halting on one occasion to study the Hendrickson Memorial, a Private First Class who died at age 22 in 1936 while participating in the construction of the road.

Finally, at 4:40 p.m., I arrived at the Kawainui trailhead. Because access to the trail is extremely limited, I was not surprised to find the footpath in need of a good clearing. I became especially exasperated at the hau section, having to crawl on all fours under thick branches to continue the trek.

Despite the humidity (leg cramps), the Kawailoa "Bear", the hot dirt/gravel road walk, and the Kawainui hau tangle - a grand total of 16 miles, I reached the campsite (approx. elev. 945 ft) at 5:45 p.m. and immediately cleared away knee high grass in preparation for the setting up of my canvass covering.

After pitching my tent, I proceeded to the large, circular pool to wash off. When I returned to the campsite, I climbed inside my humble abode and took a much needed snooze. Later, I commenced dinner preparations then consumed the evening meal (Mountain House chicken a la king) while gazing up at the clear night sky, which afforded excellent star/planet action (layers of heavenly bodies).

Revived by the cat nap and delicious supper, I took pleasure from my surroundings: the gurgling of Kawainui Stream, the chill in the air, the silhouette of a nearby ridge, and the wondrous evening sky.

Eventually, at 11:22 p.m., I reentered my tent and fell sound asleep.

== Sunday, December 31 "Layover Day at Kawainui" ==

Just what the Doctor ordered, a layover day at the Kawainui pool to recover from an arduous trip the previous day. Definately a leisurely morning: slept in til 8:30 a.m. and ate breakfast til 9:30. Completely clear blue sky overhead as the sunlight of the rising sun slowly made it's way down onto the surface of the pool and onto the floor of the stream bed.

Upon arriving at the rim of the tarn, I decided to take an invigorating swim then sunbathed on a rock (the perfect size and shape for doing so) for a spell. Unfortunately, clouds moved in around noon, blocking the sun, and by 1:30 p.m. had created overcast conditions.

Between 2 and 2:40 p.m. I explored upstream using a narrow trail to get beyond the pool, but backtracked when the clouds broke, allowing sunshine to hit the region again. Next, I swam to the other side of the pool and walked upstream to a small waterfall (natural jacuzzi), where I gained pleasure from the therapeutic massaging action caused by the stream flowing down and around a huge rock. The final two hours prior to night fall were spent pretty much lounging beside the tarn, gazing at the reflection of the surrounding low rocky cliffs and vegetated slopes (including many kukui trees) on the placid pool's surface.

Once darkness began setting in, I returned to my tent. After preparing and consuming sweet and sour pork with a salad, I hiked back to the pool and enjoyed the manner in which the crescent moon light illuminated the pale green leaves of the kukui trees. I also noticed the Great Square (constellation) and traced the path of a satellite as it traveled across the heavens. Eventually, I ended up at the campsite, but continued to delight in the marvelous star/planet configuration in the clear night sky.

== Monday, January 1, 2001

Arose at 7:15 a.m., ate breakfast until 8 and then reluctantly broke down my tent/packed for the impending noon departure. Prior to heading out, however, I experienced another exhilarating swim in the pool, lay in the small waterfall (natural jacuzzi) and sat by the pool's edge right up to the moment when I had to leave.

Overcast skies and a slight drizzle told me it was time to go so after putting my backpack on, I hit the trail at 12:15 bound for Kamehameha Hwy on the outskirts of Hale'iwa. En route to the Kawainui trailhead, frequent sunny periods prevailed, and I paused to take in the sights.

I retraced my steps to the Pa'ala'a Uka Pupukea Road/Kawailoa Road junction and headed west (directly makai) at 2:41 p.m. Endured a 5 mile gradual downhill semi-paved road walk which was murder on my feet but made less boring by the terrific view of the northshore to Ka'ena Point, the white wake of breaking waves clearly visible off the coast. Also, a huge cloud bank engulfed much of the Wai'anae Range with a heavy downpour onto the Wahiawa plain. On the way out I couldn't help but notice acres and acres of tall, green stalky grass existing on both sides of the thoroughfare. "What a waste of land" I thought to myself. Farther ahead, about one mile from Kamehameha Hwy, I recognized a large field of corn growing near a building.

When I spotted tall date palms in a ranch bordering Kawailoa Drive, I knew the end of my journey was near, and sure enough, I reached a bus stop on the shoulder of Kamehameha Hwy a few minutes later at 4:15 p.m. My buddy Ned Dilmon arrived in my vehicle at 4:25 p.m. followed by his lovely wife in their car. A big mahalo to Ned for picking up my vehicle in La'ie on Saturday and dropping it off at our designated rendezvous point on New Year's day.

Notes:

The wooden La'ie Trail sign is missing (someone obviously confiscated it). Perhaps Mike Algiers can make a replacement.

The Kawailoa Ridge Trail is still there! The first mile and a half beyond the long series of ups and downs is open, relatively speaking. Hunters probably use it. We simply must keep these classic (and historic) CCC trails alive considering how much human effort went into building them!

The Army has repaired (filled in the ruts) the military road leading to Pu'u Kapu. However, the ruts remain as the road drops down into Kawainui Gulch.

There is a guard posted at the Kawailoa Refuse Transfer Station. I'm not sure if his purpose is to protect the transfer station or to keep people out of the corn fields. As soon as the dude spotted me, he got on his bicycle and sped toward my position. I ignored him; therefore, a confrontation did not occur.

REFERENCES

* Ball, Jr., Stuart M. THE HIKERS GUIDE TO O'AHU. Honolulu: University Of Hawaii Press, 1993.

Castle Trail

The HTMC is hiking the Castle Trail this weekend (Sunday 6/13). It's a members-only hike and with only a limited number of hikers allowed. The limit is very likely a result of a requirement of the landowners, the Kamehameha Schools/Bishop Estate, who probably are concerned about environmental impact and liability. In any case, it is good for the hiking community that KS/BE is allowing access to Castle as well as other trails, such as Kawainui, Kawai Iki and Opaeula, that are on KSBE properties.

I have hiked Castle a number of times, the first being back in the early 80s when I really wasn't into hiking at all. On that occasion, I joined two friends, Bob Benham and Guy Kaulukukui, who both worked for KSBE at the time and hence were able to get access.

During that hike of Castle, I remember a particularly dicey section where we had to inch across an exposed waterfall section of the old switchbacks. At the time, I thought that was the craziest thing I had ever done in my life.

I also remember only carrying a liter of water and drinking water out of the stream that the trail crosses what up in the mountains above Punaluu. At the time, I reasoned that the water had to be pure since no animals who could foul the water could exist this high up in the Koolaus. Of course, years later I found out how incorrect I was and that indeed there were lots of animals who live up that high (and higher) and they had no problem fouling the water.

Fortunately, I survived that drink-from-the-stream episode and lived to hike another day, which included other days in the years that followed hiking on the Castle Trail which is mentioned favorably in Stuart Ball's The Hikers Guide to Oahu.

Malaekahana-Kahuku

This hike took place back in June 2001 and involved three trails: Malaekahana Ridge, Koolau Summit Trail and Kahuku Ridge. The whole thing had to be at least 12 miles but it could have been as much as 15. Whatever it was, we all had a sweaty, muddy workout. Ken Suzuki even said the plants along the Kahuku Trail are better compared to sister ridges, Laie and Malaekahana.

The hike started at the Laie ballpark on Poohaili Street, the trailhead for the Laie Trail hike. The first phase was a romp along a dirt road that passed the Laie trailhead and crossed a (dry) stream. There are several side roads on the left and right leading to farms. One concern along this stretch is harassment by dogs. A couple barked and growled as we went by in the a.m. but no dog hassles took place in the p.m., at least when I went by.

Not long after the stream crossing, we headed mauka on another dirt road.
This road eventually becomes eroded and rutted and then transitions
into the Malaekahana Trail, which we headed up. About an hour from the
cars, we passed the junction with the trail heading down to Malaekahana
Stream and continued mauka up the ridge. The trail beyond the junction
was overgrown but still passable.

Eventually, the ridge trail angles left, goes over several humps, and
arrives at a junction at a low saddle, now very well ribboned. This is
about 2 to 3 hours from the cars, depending how fast one goes. It was
there we left the ridge trail (heading right) to begin a segment we
called "The Shortcut to the KST," a longtime brain-child of Bill Gorst.
This route drops down to a little stream, passes some paperbark trees,
winds around some low ridges and ravines, crosses little streams at least
twice more, and eventually gains the summit trail about a half mile (as
the mynah flies) north of the KST/Malaekahana junction. It takes about
half an hour.

Once on the KST, our loop headed right (north) toward the Pupukea summit
hilltop, where the terminus of the Kahuku trail resides. The KST segment
was muddy in many places (to be expected) and about 2/3rds was
well-cleared. Count on at least an hour to get this part done.

At the base of the Pupukea summit hilltop is a signed junction. Today's
correct choice was to head up to the right (heading straight ahead would
take one around the hilltop and on to Pupukea). Near the top of the hill
was another signed junction. This is where the Kahuku trail begins/ends.

Getting back to the cars from this location will take approx 3-4
hours. We did it by heading down the Kahuku trail, which is a typical
uluhe-ohia ridge higher up. This part is very obvious and marked well.
After the uluhe abates, the trail transitions into the guava zone. The
corridor thru the guava is generally distinct and well-marked when the way
becomes less clear. After the guava zone, the trail becomes drier, more
eroded, and populated by vegetation like ironwoods, some pines, and
christmas berry, with some guava thrown in to keep things from
getting too easy/pleasant.

About 90 minutes from the summit, there is a junction with what appears to
be an old jeep road. We went right at that point, leaving the Kahuku
trail, which continues straight down the ridge, very broad at
this point. The old road arrives at another junction in a forest of
ironwoods. The correct way at that point is to head right to begin
descending to Malaekahana Stream. Ribbons mark the way, which eventually
gets steep and proceeds down a swath thru uluhe, then a large eroded
patch, and then puts one in the side fork of the (dry) stream. The side
fork quickly leads to a junction with the main (babbling) stream. At that
point, there is ribboned trail that gets the old ticker a-pumping by
climbing steeply to the ridgetop of the south side of Malaekahana Stream.

Once the ridgetop is gained, the trail heads mauka for a short spell, then
swings to the left thru a forest of guava and ironwoods. This area is well
marked. The trail reaches a barbed-wire fenceline, which is followed for
a bit and then ducked under at a ribboned point. A road covered
with horse manure heads makai to mauka (head makai). Heading as such will
lead to a large antenna tower. Near the tower is an indistinct (but
ribboned well today) path that heads to the right. This path leads to a
gate and the start/end of a dirt road. Go thru the gate (make sure to
secure the gate with the attached rope) and proceed down the road.

This road will lead to a junction with the dirt road leading to
Malaekahana that was walked on earlier. The conclusion of the hike is the
dirt road amble back to the Laie ballpark.

Some notes about the hike:


Several folks ran out of water en route. This is at least a three-liter
hike, especially in the summer months.

Walkie-talkies were useful in helping us keep track of who was where. For
those who don't have a walkie-talkie, consider purchasing one.

Marriage, Hiking, and Life

While I haven't read the book Solemates: Lessons On Life, Love, and Marriage From the Appalachian Trail, it sounds like an interesting read.  Maybe someday I'll write a book similar to it and call it Solemates: Lessons On Life, Love, and Marriage From the Trails of Hawaii.

Well, today is my wife and I's 6th wedding anniversary (the picture to the left is us above Poomau Canyon [Kokee] on Kauai).  As I reflect on the years I've been married, I can say that they've been good years on the whole.  Yes, there've been lots of trials and challenges along the way but I can say that I love my wife and I love being married to her.  While it is true that I am hiking a lot less than I was in my pre-married days, I have no regrets.   

Hiking, as it turns out, has played an interesting part in my life.  I met Jacque in 1993.  Up to that point, I had hiked very little, perhaps less than ten times in the 30+ years of my life.    Interestingly, Jacque suggested a hike with a local hiking club (HTMC) as a date during my early courtship of her.  I liked the idea and we decided on a Saturday hike with club on the Hauula-Papali trails.  If you discount the suffering I endured on the climbs on these supposedly novice trails and also the fact that I led us astray at one point on the hike, we had a good experience that day

Such a good time did we have that we had other hiking "dates," one of them being a backpacking trip up Mauna Loa, which I blogged about recently.

Little did I realize that that date with my future wife would lead to LOTS of hiking thereafter (the pic to the right is us on a ridge in Kalihi Valley).  So much so that we became members of HTMC and even lead hikes for the club till this day.

Right now, my wife and I are engaged in an urban hiking expedition, with the goal of hiking around Oahu (via roads) in stages for a total of 120+ miles.  We have completed the section from Kaneohe to Haleiwa, from Pearl City to Kaneohe, and from Hawaii Kai to Nuuanu.  What remains is the West side (Waianae Coast) and Mokuleia to Pearl City.  We hope to complete all that by the end of summer 2010.

I also look forward to another year of happily married life with the woman of my dreams.

Aiea Hiking with the HTMC on National Trails Day

Tomorrow (6/5/10 Saturday) is my wife and I's sixth wedding anniversary.  On 6/5/04 at 3:21 in the afternoon, we were married at the chapel on the campus of the Kamehameha Schools, my alma mater.  Happy anniversary to us!

Tomorrow also is National Trails Day.  In tribute to the day, the Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club will be conducting three (count 'em) hikes tomorrow, all in the mountains above Aiea.

The options, from longest/most difficult to shortest/easiest include

1. Aiea Ridge trail (12 miles)
2. Aiea Loop trail (4.5 miles)
3. Aiea bisectional trail (3 miles)

Meeting time tomorrow is 8 a.m. up at the upper trailhead in Keaiwa State Park.

Dunno if the missus and I will be hiking with the club, but we do plan on celebrating our 6th!  BTW, the pic you see of my wife and I on this blog is taken at the upper trailhead aforementioned.

Makiki-Tantalus Loop

One of my favorite workout hikes is the Makiki-Tantalus Loop which is actually a circuit of several trails including Moleka, Makiki Valley, Kanealole, Nahuina, Maunalaha, Kalawahine, and Manoa Cliffs.  Sound confusing?  Well it is, that is until you have gone out and done it.  After that, no problem.

The hike starts at the Nature Center in Makiki where there is a bathroom and water.  Parking is down the road from the Nature Center in a gravel lot on the left. 

Since this is a loop, it can be done in the clockwise direction (starting with the Kanealole Trail) or counterclockwise (starting with the Maunalaha Trail).  The latter option gets the pulse climbing more quickly because of the climbing commences right away and with greater steepness.  Most times, I prefer to get the hard stuff out of the way right off the bat.

The Maunalaha Trail climbs up a dry, rocky, tree-covered ridge (see photo at right) to arrive a big junction with a sign and a bench.   To do the big loop (about 7 miles), proceed up to the right on the Makiki Valley Trail and not long after that, head left on the Moleka Trail.  There are not many views along this part of the hike.  The views will come later.

Eventually, the Moleka Trail ends at a crossing of Round Top Drive.  Directly across Round Top is the start of the Manoa Cliffs Trail.  The cliffy part of the trail doesn't start right away but in about 5 to 10 minutes it will.

Much of the cliff trail isn't really cliffy but there will be some nice views down into Manoa Valley along the way.  The trail in this direction climbs gradually to make its way around Tantalus mountain.  along the way at a sometimes windy lookout, there is a rest bench.  I use this bench as a benchmark for my conditioning.  If I can reach the bench from the Nature Center (via Maunalaha) in an hour, I'm moving at a good pace for me.  The downhill part of the Manoa Cliff trail begins at a metal gate, which marks the entrance of an inclosed area to protect native plants.

Upon exiting the inclosed area, head left on the continuation of the Cliffs Trail.  Do note that straight ahead after exiting the inclosure is the Pauoa Flats Trail, which leads to the Nuuanu Lookout, Konahuanui, and the Aihualama Trail down into Manoa Valley.  But since we're doing the loop, we'll scratch that part, but if you feel so inclined, go for it. Just remember your landmarks.

The cliffs trail switches back several times to descend to the Kalawahine Trail.  At that junction, head left and follow Kalawahine as it contours on the Ewa-facing side of Tantalus.  The Kalawahine Trail ends at Tantalus Drive.  To continue the loop, proceed straight ahead on Tantalus Drive for about 60-70 meters.  On the left will be the Nahuina Trail which is accessed by hopping over a metal guardrail along Tantalus Drive.

Nahuina descends in switchbacks to a junction with the Makiki Valley Trail.  At that junction, head left to continue the descent to the valley bottom.  In a few minutes, the MVT will reach yet again another junction (this hike is big on junctions!).   At that point, head right down the Kanealole Trail which ends at the Nature Center.

On good days (for me), I've done this loop in two hours.  I will admit that I jog part of the flat and downhill sections of most of the route. 

For a shorter (1-hour) option, the Makiki Valley Loop is a good choice.  The variation on the route I described would be to head leftward instead of straight and up at the big junction to continue on the Makiki Valley Trail.  Then at the junction with the Kanealole Trail, head down to return to the Nature Center.

Makapu'u Lighthouse Trail

Most of us who live in Hawaii or have an interest in the islands are familiar with the TV shows Magnum P.I. and Hawaii Five-O. Remember scenes from a high vantage point with Rabbit Island and the Waimanalo coast in the background? If you were wondering, those scenes were filmed at the Makapuu Lighthouse overlook, a site accessible via a 45 minute walk from Kalanianaole Highway.
After years of driving from Honolulu to my windward side home in Kaneohe, I finally decided in the summer of 1994 to check out what lay beyond that gated roadway at the bottom of the long hill on the Hawaii Kai Golf Course side. What had taken a lifelong Oahu resident so long to explore this place? Probably like many others, I had a notion that access to the road beyond the gate was not allowed. Even though more times than not I saw cars parked along the roadway fronting the gate indicating that people were tramping around up there, I categorized these folks as trespassers who'd placed themselves at the mercy of the law, car thieves, or both.

I'm not sure if overhearing a conversation about the hike prompted me to venture forth; however, one midsummer morning I was on the road to Waimanalo and after a 20 minute drive from Kaneohe was parking at the Hawaii Kai Golf Course (I was more leery of car thieves than the law). By the way, you need not park at the golf course to do the hike. Parking along the fairly wide shoulder along Kalanianaole is fine.

Plan on a 15 minute walk to the gate if you park at the golf course. From there, simply follow the paved road that contours along the ridge in the direction opposite of your ultimate destination. The climb is gradual and soon enough you'll find yourself rounding the corner of the ridge where you'll have your first magnificent view of the azure Pacific from atop steep and rugged sea cliffs. However, the hike does not end there.

Continue up the road, this time heading in the direction of Rabbit Island. In some spots, the road skirts perilously close to the side of the steep pali. While walking along these places, I had visions of some olden day lighthouse keeper teaching his son or daughter to drive--certainly not a place to err.,p.
The ultimate reward of the hike is at the end of the road at a windswept lookout point high above Makapuu Beach and Rabbit Island. While I stood there and gazed seaward, visions of Tom Selleck, Jack Lord and television cameras and lights popped into my mind. In retrospect, I even recall episodes of Bodies in Motion, the aerobics show featuring Gil Janklowitz, being shot there. In fact, Makapuu point has been occupied or visited by many others before me: a couple generations of lighthouse keepers and their families, a group of Hawaiians who claimed family rights to the aina (land) there, scores of local fisherman who venture down the steep cliffs to take advantage of fruitful fishing grounds, armies of teens armed with beer and spray paint (graffiti abounds), and many others.

Along with Lord, Selleck, Janklowitz and a miscellany of siteseers, vagabonds and just plain folk, Dayle Turner can be counted among the many who have traveled up the Makapuu Lighthouse road.

I should mention that it is possible to hike from the road to the ocean. While walking up the road from the highway, look for the place where the concrete pillars begin (this is on the section of the road that overlooks the ocean and is heading in the direction of the lighthouse). Right at the first pillar, a trail descends the steep, rocky slope. The trail is readily apparent and if you think you have drifted off the path, look back upslope for arrows spraypainted onto the rocks.The descent to the ocean takes 10-15 minutes and at the bottom are some nice tide pools and a blowhole that puffs geysers of ocean water to the rhythm of incoming swells.

Once at the oceanside, it is possible to head right along the shoreline (toward Sandy Beach) to get to a cave and beyond. I've never gone beyond the cave, but others have told me it is possible to hike along the rocky shelf to reach Pele's Chair, the rock formation by the ocean in the Allan Davis area that is part of the Makapuu Shoreline Loop. Monitor the wave action if you decide to do this. Getting swept into the ocean in this area could mean curtains.