Kulepeamoa, Kupaua, Kuliouou

In the fifth month, in the second year of the new millennium, Sir Jay Man
of Feld dreamed a prophetic dream. In it, he found himself wandering
along mountain trails in three regions.  In his dream, some trails he
romped along had been established generations ago; others had to be
fashioned with brute force and strength. So taken was he by this sleep
vision that Sir Jay sent out word to disciples from the hallowed tribe
once dubbed the WEHOTS. And convinced of the veracity of the apparition
of the Man of Feld, the disciples agreed to accompany him on his quest.

And so it was.  And so it will be written.

At the end of a Place called Kalaau in a valley called Kuliouou,
Jay and the summoned disciples gathered at a brown sign adorned with
bright yellow hieroglyphics, a holy shrine to a tribe called Na Ala Hele,
the keepers of the trails of the land. While facing the shrine, Jay and
the disciples prayed for guidance and wisdom, and a voice from the
heavens told them to go forth as one to the land called Niu and a
mountain ridge called Kulepeamoa.  Thusly, in a holy (holey?) chariot,
guided by Sir Mike of Algiers, the annointed ones set out on their
quest.

Once at Niu, the band of merry men, and one merry woman, commenced the
journey. Let the venerated scrolls of OHE show that the men were Sir Jay
Man of Feld, Sir Mike of Algiers, Sir Jay Son of Sunada, Sir William of
Gorst, and the scribe, Sir Ka of Lama. And she of the fairer sex was
Lady Helene of Sroat.  Ambling amiably in the forest, a motley and
madcap bunch they were.

Soon enough, the pleasant forest trail steepened, and the questers
languished and labored, perspiring in such quantities to sate the dry
stream in the valley below.  But relief came eventually by way of a lovely
breeze-caressed copse of ironwoods atop a mountain called Kulepeamoa,
where the questers cast their bodies down to rest aching limbs, to sup on
sweet snacks, and to soothe parched throats.  Far off to the south, they
spied the bluest of oceans, but, despite its alluring presence, it was
not there they were headed.  It was north they needed to go.

Hastened by Sir Ka of Lama, the merry band recommenced its journey after
the pleasant rest in the ironwood copse.  Over hill dale they
marched, searching for the prophesized place where they would depart the
mountain crest of Kulepeamoa.  And less than a dozen hills northward
from the copse, they found it, in a sheltered dell between hilltops,
amongst  sparse patches of ti and staghorn fern. For future questers,
Sir Jay Man of Feld affixed colorful ribbons to mark the way into a
valley called Kupaua.

Recalling his dream, Sir Jay revealed to his fellow questers a prophecy of
an  ensuing battle in Kupaua.  Thusly, all drew weapons of steel from
their back-borne sacks in anticipation of the impending confrontation.
And the Man from Feld was prophetic indeed, and the battle commenced, with
opposing combatants from the Guava and Christmasberry tribes felled in
great numbers.  Miraculously, none of the questers were struck down, a
testament, no doubt, to the experience gained from many battles waged in
prior quests.

Sir Jay and the disciples battled their way to waterless Kupaua Stream,
leaving a path of destruction in their wake.  Crossing to the stream's far
bank, they continued on, climbing unchallenged at times and jousting with
aggressive Guava and Christmasberry tribesmen at others.  One by one, the
questers thrust their way through the enemy line, fighting a brave
fight to emerge atop the west ridgecrest of Kuliouou.  The last to emerge
was Sir Jay, who proclaimed to all who would listen, "We have battled and
we have won."  He marked the place of proclamation with colorful ribbons,
and he and his fellow questers sat down nearby under a lone ironwood to
for a celebratory feast of sausages, sandwiches, nuts, and sweets.
Sir Jay told of his longing for tortillas made from corn, but none were
seen or to be found.

An hour after noon, with bellies filled with food from the feast, the
questers arose yet again to continue their journey.  Southward they
headed, then downward and leftward into a narrow cleft on a steep slope
covered with needles of ironwood.  A short battle with a wayward tribe of
Guava brought them to a small stream, with stale pools of green water.
Sir Ka of Lama tossed a stone into the largest of murky pools and made
a wish:  "I wish we were riddith of this forsaken place," he said.

"And we will be," said Sir William of Gorst, "once we mount the hill from
hell."  And so it was set forth in Jay's prophetic dream, and so it came
to be. So upward they all went, the mounting of the hell-hill the goal.
Just like on the hills before it, one by one the questers reached the
apex, first Sir Jay Son of Sunada, then one by one the others, casting
their bodies down to rest and rejoice.  "We are here!" said Lady Helene.

"Indeed we are," said the Man from Feld.  "But there is one final test in
our quest: finding the fabled trail made by the lopper-wielding sorcerer
Wing of Ng.  It is south from here."

So rousing themselves once again, southward they headed.

On a rocky hilltop, they found a magic ribbon tied to a vine.  Looking
over the side of the mountain, they saw more ribbons tied to vines and
branches.  Far below, they recognized the Place called Kalaau in the
Valley of Kuliouou and the shrine to Na Ala Hele where they had prayed
for wisdom only hours before. "Ahh, we have found it," said Sir Mike of
Algiers. "The fabled trail is no fable after all."

So down they headed, over rocks, over vines, past branches and trees laid
to waste by the sorcerer Ng.  Whenever there was doubt about which way to
go, they found a magic ribbon pointing the way. "Follow me,"  the ribbons
beckoned, "follow me." In a trance, the questers continued along, down,
down, down.

Led forth by the magic ribbons, they then arrived in a dry stream
filled with a jumble of dead trees and flood-borne branches.  The
sorcerer had fashioned a tunnel through this maze, making for safe
passage for the questers.  "Thank you, Sorcerer Ng," they all proclaimed,
"you are not evil like some make you out to be."

The sorcerer's trail indeed led right to the shrine, and upon arriving
there, each one of the questers sat down near it to pay homage to it and
to give thanks for a journey successfully completed.  Yet another feast
commenced, with Sir Jay offering cold drinks to appease thirst and sweet
cookies to satisfy hunger.

"A great journey it was," said Lady Helene.

"Agreed," echoed her fellows. "We shall do it again someday."

And so it was, and so it will be written.

Maunawili miconia hunting

Like the last several months, Maunawili Valley was the venue for the Sierra Club miconia hunt. We found none of the purple-leafed monsters, but what I've found on these outings is that the fun is in the hunting; finding, though the goal, isn't required. We met at 8:30 at the community park in the valley. HTMers Charlotte, Tom, Justin, and I were among the small group who showed up to search. The husband and wife team of Joby Rohrer and Kapua Kawelo were the coordinators for the hunt. Additionally, Sean, who works full-time for the state as a miconia hunter, was on hand, and he provided transport deep into Maunawili Valley with his state truck. I had never been on the narrow, paved valley road past where the Maunawili Falls trail begins, and it was interesting to see how well-kept it is, what kinds of homes & structures are back there, what kinds of crops are being grown, and how far the road penetrates into the valley (the road becomes dirt and gravel after a mile or so). To give you an idea how deep we got, Sean was able to drive all the way to the base of the large powerline tower that is between the 4.5 and 5.0 markers on the Maunawili Demo trail. From the truck, we were a 5-minute hike from the demo trail. Once on the demo trail, we headed in the Waimanalo direction for about a mile until reaching a junction with Ainoni Ridge. In last month's search, the one where I had an encounter with a pig in a snare, we had done a pretty thorough job of covering the area between Ainoni and Aniani Nui Ridges. So today, the plan was to cover as much as we could between Ainoni and the main powerline ridge we had driven up. To do that, we descended Ainoni ridge on a brushy but discernible trail and after 10 or 15 minutes down, we began peeling off to the left to descend into a large drainage. After a few others had peeled down, Charlotte and I headed left down a spur ridge and began spotting ribbons and pretty decent trail. Just about everyone on the hunt had a walkie-talkie, and as such we all were able to monitor positions and progress. Those things are great. Charlotte and I passed a pile of trash on the ground, which included several water bottles, a can opener, and a tupperware container full of uneaten, moldy rice and meat. We also noticed a thick wall of hau to our left, so we kept on the spur top, hoping that the hau barrier would end to allow us to drop down to Ainoni Stream. Indeed, the hau did abate, and we were able to descend to the stream, which we crossed to its far bank. From there, we began working our way upstream on the slope of the bank along pig trails through guava and around small patches of hau. While doing this, I spotted above us what looked like a people-made contour trail. Closer inspection proved this to be correct. Apparently, this contour path was constructed during the building of the Maunawili Demo trail and used by volunteers to access MDT around the 6-mile mark. Tom and Charlotte, both who put in time in building the demo trail, recalled using this contour route. Today, Charlotte and I followed the contour trail, which after a bit dropped down to cross Ainoni Stream and continue generally on its left bank. We eventually caught up to Justin, who was making his way to the left around a steep waterfall section, and Kapua and Tina (visiting Nature Conservancy worker from Molokai), who were beginning to head up a large ravine to the right of the one Justin was working on. Kapua, after a bit, headed up a steep confluence similar to Justin's, while Charlotte and Tina began scouring a larger one just to the right of Kapua's. Sound confusing? Well, it was, unless you were there, in which case you would have found that we had everything well in hand (at least, we thought so). What did I do? Well, I headed up a narrow ravine to the right of Charlotte's and Tina's. I followed the streambed at times, pig trails at others, and no trail at others. When I reached a place where the ravine split (this happened twice), I headed left each time, always trying to remember why I was there (to look for miconia!). Where I went, I didn't see any trash, prints, or cuttings, signs that a human had been there, but I did see many signs of pigs, including trampled down vegetation that looked only minutes old. At one point, I stopped to inspect a small clearing of smashed down weeds. Interspersed in the leaves were coarse shards of black pig hair. A pua'a bed? Probably. Around 12:30, I finally emerged on the demo trail at a bend in the trail about 100 meters 'Nalo side of the 5-mile marker. From WT transmissions, I found out Justin, Tina, and Charlotte had reached the demo trail around the 5.5 mile mark. Meanwhile, Tom, Joby, Sean and others were a good ways makai and working toward my position. Tom eventually found his way to the dirt road we had driven up in the morning and then walked up a mile or so to the truck. I found a nice shady spot under a trailside ohia tree for lunch and was eventually joined there by Charlotte, Justin, Tina, Joby, and Kapua. Everyone else found their way to the demo trail and the truck, and after reuniting, we loaded up and headed back down. On the way out, Tom directed us to a side road on the right where he had emerged. He told us this offshoot was used by Sierra Club volunteers to access the contour trail Charlotte and I found in the morning. The road is now quite overgrown, but Sean's huge state truck was easily up to the task. We may use this side road on a future hunt. For those who've never done a miconia hunt, I'd encourage you to give it a go, especially if you like exploring places few, if any, folks have gone before. Maunawili's a huge valley and I'd expect there'll be a bunch more outings needed to cover it. --dkt

Friendship Garden, Kokokahi ridge, Kawaewae

I started a month of vacation yesterday, and I decided to join the
Wednesday group (Solemates) for a hike on Kokokahi Ridge (aka Kawaewae
Ridge) in Kaneohe.  This was convenient for me since I live a few minutes
away from the trail.

At 9:30, we met on Mokulele Drive near Dusty Klein's house and were
ferried over to Kokokahi Place in three trucks, one driven by veteran
Bill Gorst, who lives on Kokokahi Place adjacent to the Friendship
Gardens where the trail begins.  Bill was kind enough to let folks use
the lua in his home, and many took him up on his nice gesture.  By my
count, there were about two dozen people in attendance, including the
Solemate's organizers, David and Roger.  Some familiar faces included
John Hall, George Shoemaker, Janice Nako-Piburn, Ruby and Joe Bussen, and
Gordon Muschek.  Bill also did the hike.

The pace for the hike was laid-back, and folks seemed very intent on
gabbing and talking story as they moved along leisurely.  Rest breaks were
often, and there was discussion about the heiau and industrial
buildings on the edge of Kawainui Marsh. Most seemed unconcerned by the
brief rainshowers that spilled down on us.  The trail was in fine
condition, partly because the HTMC recently used it for an outing.  Even
with the occasionally showers, the footing  remained easily manageable,
with no mud at all.

>From the trail's high point, there are a couple of steep slopes to
descend, with ropes affixed as aids.  A bit further ahead, at a low point
where the trail followed an old grassy road, I bailed on the main route to
take an overgrown trail I had stumbled upon once before. No one saw me
take this diversion, which was good since I didn't want to lead anyone
astray on a semi-bushwack. I had no trouble on the descent until I
reached a small grove of hau, which I had to twist and contort my body to
get through.  After that, I continued to descend a bit more steeply,
finally arriving in a small, narrow gulley.  I followed a faint swath,
making my way along what seemed to me as the best line thru the weeds and
vines.  After a few minutes of that, the forest floor opened up, and I
recognized the area as one used for paintball battles by folks who enjoy
that pasttime. I continued on to an exit at the end of Lipalu Place,
then walked back through the Pikoiloa subdivision to my car on Mokulele
Drive.

I spent a couple of minutes talking with Moshe Rappaport, who grilled me
about the upcoming KST backpack. Though I wasn't trying to dissuade him,
my mention of the mud, the overgrown nature of the trail, and the need to
obtain water from streams seemed to do just that.  I also talked briefly
with George and Janice, who had hiked out at the end of Kumakua Place,
the planned exit for the hike. After chatting with them, I headed
home for a shower, lunch, and nap--the latter being the most enjoyable of
the three.

Ahh, it's good to be on vacation.

--dkt

Twin Falls, Ching's Pond, Piilanihale Heiau, Blue Pool, Waianapanapa to Hana coastal trail, Venus Pool, Red Sand Beach, Oheo Gulch

Thirty-something of us--almost all members of HTMC--invaded the Valley
Isle for a couple days of hiking, swimming, eating, and having fun.
The weather wasn't always the best, but as Grant said at one point during
the trip, "Even with the rain and cold, it's better than any day at work."
Yup, he's right about that.

We flew to Maui on Friday morning (5/4), the majority doing so on Aloha
Airlines (better rates? dunno?).  For ground transport, we used
two 15-passenger vans, a mid-sized car, and Mark Short's family van (Mark
is an HTMC member and recently moved to Maui).  Getting all the bags,
gargantuan food supply, and bodies into the four vehicles was a
challenge, but we're talking about folks with plenty of experience
putting cargo--human and otherwise--into the right place.  So no problem.

For the record, the trip participants (35) were as follows:  Mabel Kekina,
Carole K. Moon, June Miyasato, Deetsie Chave, Bill Gorst, Carmen Craig,
Ralph/Bev/Michael Valentino, Jason/Cera/Kimberly Sunada, Kris Corliss &
Larry/Ginger Oswald, Gordon/Connie Muschek, Mark/Jacob/Dylan Short,
Joe/Ruby Bussen, Pat Rorie, Arnold Fujioka, Nathan Yuen, Thea Ferentinos,
Justin Ohara, Grant Oka, Joyce Tomlinson, Ken Suzuki, Mike Algiers,
Helene Sroat, Jackie/Jamie Delgado, Dayle Turner.  A special mahalo goes
to Lynn Agena, who didn't make the trip but was the major mover in
purchasing and preparing the food we ate on the trip. Way to go, Lynn.

After figuring out what/who went where, we made a stop at Safeway in
Kahului to pick up lunch for the day plus snacks and other food items &
supplies needed for the next couple days.  A few people grabbed some
burgers at a nearby Jack in the Box.

Our first hiking/swimming spot was Twin Falls, located at Marker 2 on the
Hana Hwy well past Paia.  Anyone looking for this trailhead should have no
trouble finding it because of the tourist cars parked along the roadside
and a refreshment stand there as well. Many of the places we hiked/swam
began at trailheads with "Keep Out, No Trespassing" signs.  However, most
of these same spots are well-known (based on info available on the 'net
and in books) and well-used (based on the stamped-down nature of the
trails).  Whatever the case, the landowners seem not to enforce what is
said on the signs. As far as Twin Falls, a hike of 10 to 15 minutes
delivered us to a 30-foot cascade where about half of our entourage
took the first of what would be many plunges in the coming days.

Stop 2 was at Ching's Pond, a clear, pleasant swimming hole located on the
ocean side of the highway.  I don't recall the nearest mile marker for
this spot, but I do remember it is several miles before Pua'a Kaa
Park.  We ate lunch at Ching's Pond.  Afterward we made the 100-foot
climb back to the highway, crossed it, and then headed mauka on a jeep
road to a pool Ken said was fantastic.  Unfortunately, only a handful made
it to the pool (I didn't) to experience its fantastic-ness.  Maybe next
time.

Stop 3 was at Puaa Kaa Wayside.  No hiking here.  Just a quick stop to use
the lua and to stretch the legs.

Our next stop was supposed to be Hanawi Falls, accessed via a trailhead at
the end of the road down to Nahiku.  As would be the case during our trip,
plans changed often, sometimes minute to minute (okay, that's an
exaggeration but it seemed that way on occasion).  So instead of Hanawi,
we drove on to Kahanu Gardens, home of Piilanihale Heiau, the largest in
Hawaii.  We arrived after the 2 pm closing of the Gardens, but Mabel had
heard from someone that we could enter the grounds nonetheless, so that's
what we did.  The Gardens are immaculately kept and feature a variety of
unusual trees like jackfruit and eggfruit.  On the ~1-mile walk to
the heiau, we met some caretakers of the garden.  They suggested a $5 per
person donation for our visit, but our negotiators whittled the total
down to $60 for the 35 of us and later to no cash and a few hours of
labor in the gardens at a future date.  Hmmm, maybe $60 is the better
deal.

A bit about Piilanihale: it was built in the 14th century for the
benevolent, beloved Maui chief, Piilani.  The site was overgrown with
weeds until the 1970s and is now a National Historic Landmark. The heiau's
dimensions are 415 x 340 feet.  Huge and majestic.

The next stop took us on a short drive to the end of the road past
Kahanu Gardens.  From there, we rockhopped along the coast for five
minutes to Blue Pool, a wonderful seaside swimming spot at the foot of a
vegetation-covered cliffside cascade.  It was late in the day and overcast
during our visit, so conditions weren't optimal, but many of us took the
plunge nevertheless, including Pat in his spiffy, new wetsuit.

Waianapanapa State Park was our final stop of the day, and the cabins and
campgrounds there would be our homebase for the rest of our stay.  We had
four cabins reserved for 24 (plus 1).  Another six tent-camped at the
site next to the caretaker's house.  And four stayed at a rental in
Hana town.  Prior to the trip, we had all pitched in money for food, with
dinners (teri chicken & curry stew) prepared and eaten at a central
designated cabin.  Breakfasts (eggs, sausage, hot cereal) were prepped
and eaten at individual cabins (with tent campers and the four rental
dwellers eating at a cabin of their choice).  Sandwich fixings,
chips, fruit, and trail mix were made available to each cabin for
in-the pack lunches. It all worked out well.  I was one of the tenters and
enjoyed the benefit of a quiet night's sleep, which wasn't necessarily
the case for those in the cabins (read: snoring).  I had to deal with some
rain, with setting up and breaking down my tent, and with the half-mile
walk to and from the cabins, but these were minor inconveniences.

Day 2 (Saturday) was all about rain and dreary weather.  But as hardcore
HTMC folks, we're undaunted by such conditions.  After breakfast, we set
out in a light drizzle on the rocky coastal trail from Waianapanapa to
Hana town, a distance of about three miles.  Along the way, we
passed a shack maintained by fishermen and a couple of older shoreside
homes with guardian dogs.  Right before the homes we came to a dirt road
heading inland, which turned out to be the quick route to the road into
town.  A bunch of us with a disdain for dirt roads continued along the
coast to  eventually reach a black sand beach where we were able to
access a paved road leading to the road into town. A key turnoff en
route was a grassy  road marked by a fishing lure hanging in a tree.  A
pleasant surprise to me was that Jackie (my girlfriend) and Jamie (her
daughter) were able to stay up near the front of the group without
complaining since they don't hike as much as the rest of us. Good job to
those two.

We all were able to find our way to the road to town and ended up at the
Hana pier, where we had staged the vans earlier in the morning.  We spent
time at Tutu's Snack Shop (pricey but one of the few games in town),
enjoying warm coffee, cocoa, ice cream, and whatever else we wanted.  The
snack shop and pier sits at the foot of a massive 400-foot pu'u named
Kauiki.  On the opposite side of Kauiki is Red Sand Beach, our next
supposed destination of the day. But the due to the weather and rough
ocean conditions, the plan was altered and the next stop was changed to
Venus Pool (aka Waioka Pool). A few folks didn't get wind of the
modified plan and attempted to hike around the seaward side of Kauiki to
reach Red Sand Beach.  However, they discovered vertical sea cliffs made
this impossible, so they climbed up to the crest of Kauiki and down its
mauka side.

The trail to Venus Pool is just after mile marker 48 on the
Hana-town side of Waiohonu Bridge.  A 100-meter walk brought us to the
pool, which features several rocky outcrops for jumping and diving.  The
stars of Venus Pool were na keiki, Ginger and Jamie, who jumped off the
highest rock (~40 feet) several times each.  While a few of the men
leaped from this high perch, most macho types (like me) did not (yup,
chicken).  So hats off to the daring youngsters.

Our final stop of day 2 was Red Sand Beach, located on the southern side
of Kauiki.  Reputedly a place frequented by nude sunbathers, Red Sand
Beach does indeed have red sand.  What it didn't have on this day were any
nudists. In fact, members of our group were the first on the beach
thought after our arrival a few other folks arrived.  Yes, we shed our
clothes.  But no one shed all his or her clothes.  Cera, perhaps wanting
to burn some  excess energy, climbed partway up the steep slope
overlooking the beach. Way to go, Cera.

We returned to Waianapanapa after an hour at RSB, with most folks opting
to shower, change, snack, and relax.  Mark and I decided to hike the
coastal trail to the Hana Airport, and this took us about an hour.
Along the way, we passed a couple of fishermen, a rocky terrace that
appeared to be a grave, and a benchmark stamped into a lava rock.  A sign
on the trail directed us to the "Airport Exit" and the trail emerged at
the end of airport runway, unprotected by a fence or wall.  As we stood
there, we saw a plane heading for a landing.  We watched it touch down, do
a u-turn, and then taxi to the small single-story building that serves as
the Hana Airport terminal.

In about five minutes, Mark and I completed the walk to the terminal.  The
pilots of the just-landed plane had already unloaded its cargo, which
included stacks of the Honolulu Advertiser and a box of pizza destined for
the Hana Ranch Store. We chatted briefly with the terminal manager, a
low-key Hawaiian bla-lah, who asked us how our hike had gone.  After
watching the plane take off, Mark and I headed back to Waianapanapa,
meeting Jason and Pat along the way.  The two-hour hike was a good
workout and relaxing at the same time--just what I needed to end the day.

On the way back, I heard Gordon announce on the walkie-talkie that dinner
would be ready at 6 pm.  Noticing that it was nearing 5:30, I picked up
the pace a bit and decided against a visit to Waianapanapa Cave.  Instead,
I picked up a change of clothes from my tent, and then hustled over to
the cabin where Jackie and Jamie were staying.  I took a warm shower
there (that felt wonderful), changed, and  headed over to the dinner
cabin for kaukau (leftover teri chicken and curry stew--ono!).

The dinner cabin was the gathering place for the 35 of us, with folks
partaking of relaxing libations, good food, fun games (uno), interesting
entertainment (highlighted by Larry's dancing and harmonica playing), and
animated conversations.  I walked back to my tent at 10 p.m. and had
another quiet, restful night of sleep.

Sunday was the day we said aloha to Waianapanapa.  The game plan:  eat
breakfast; pack up our gear; clean up the cabins; group A would backtrack
along the Hana Highway to Nahiku to do the hike to Hanawi Falls; group B
would drive ahead to Kipahulu to Oheo Gulch for swimming and hiking;
Groups A & B would regroup at Kipahulu in the early afternoon then
continue on past Kaupo for a pit stop at the Tedeschi Winery in
Ulupalakua.

The above plan worked well.  I went with group B, having previously done
the Hanawi Falls hike and wanting to stick with the J&J girls.  The drive
from Waianapanapa to Kipahulu took about 30 minutes (Ralph did a
fantastic job of driving on the trip) and when we arrived
at the Oheo Gulch parking area, we were almost the first ones there.
Mabel suggested we head makai to the pools first and later head mauka. If
we flip-flopped the order, said Mabel, then the makai pools would be
flooded with tourists on our return. Made sense to me.

With J&J, Mabel, Cera, Carole, the kids, and others, I spent at least an
hour and a half swimming and taking it easy at the pools near the ocean.
A highlight was watching Carole jump off a rock into the lower pool.
This wasn't easy for her since she has personal demons associated with
rocks and water to reckon with.  But she did it.  Nice job!

Wanting some exercise, I shouldered my pack and headed up the trail into
the valley to Waimoku Falls.  Ralph, Bev, Jason, Joe, Ruby, Deetsie, and
others had earlier hiked ahead. The trail was dry most of the way, and a
good deal of its upper section is a boardwalk thru a large bamboo forest.
Waimoku, a 400-footer, was impressive, and I spent a few minutes taking in
its beauty.  I headed up the trail to the falls on the left before
Waimoku, and partway down I ran into Ralph, Bev, Deetsie, and Jason, who'd
visited the left-falls and were heading down.  I turned around at that
point and hiked out with them.

Jason, on the way out of the valley, went off to explore a side stream
leading to a lesser-known waterfall.  There he saw three pot-smoking guys
who shed their clothes for some naked swimming.  Not surprisingly, he
didn't join them for a toke or a dip.

Meanwhile, Ralph, Bev, and Deetsie stopped at the top of 200-foot Makahiku
Falls for lunch.  I joined them briefly and then headed back down to our
van, where I found that members of Group A had arrived after doing the
Hanawi Falls hike.  After another half hour of resting and eating lunch,
we all boarded our vehicles--now three vans and a car--to drive on the
rought road to Kaupo then Tedeschi Winery.  Several miles past Kaupo, at
a bridge crossing over a rocky gulch, Carmen's van pulled over and Carmen
and most of her passengers deboarded for a middle-of-nowhere potty
break.  In  contrast, no one in our van felt the need to answer nature's
call.  What's up with that?

The road on the way to Ulupalakua is dry and rocky, akin to the Makapuu
area on Oahu, but the roadway is narrower, rougher, and at times
meandering like a snake as if the road builders were drunk during
construction.  In our van, a battle of the songs began, with the kids
singing a can-can tune and Carole and Jackie belting out the itsy-bitsy
spider song.  The singers were having fun, no doubt.

We stopped for 45 minutes at Tedeschi, with some folks partaking of free
wine samples offered by the winery staff.  We then drove over to Joyce's
house in Makawao, where we cleaned up for the flight home.  After gassing
up the vans in Kahului, we headed to the airport for the flight home.

Jackie, Jamie, and I had reservations for the 7:25 Hawaiian Air flight to
Honolulu but we decided at the last minute to stay on extra day on Maui.
We grabbed a rental car, a room in the Maui Surf, and ate a sumptuous meal
of crispy chicken, 5-seasoning roast duck, and egg foo yong at a Chinese
restaurant.

On Monday, we ate at the hotel buffet (eggs and sausage!), then drove up
to Haleakala to spend the morning there.  We stopped at the visitor's
center, where I inquired about open spots in the cabins in the coming
month, and among the open dates were some on the Memorial Day weekend.
Anyone interested should call up the visitor's center (572-4400) between 1
and 3 pm to check for open dates.  We then drove up and parked in the lot
by the Sliding Sands trailhead (the road to the actual summit was closed
to vehicles).  We cruised around the area, taking a ton of photos,
including many of the crater's interior, free of clouds.

After a half hour at the top, we headed back down, stopping at the
visitor's center one more time (lua break), then on down to Kahului Costco
where we dropped off five rolls of film for the 1-hour quickie service.
We then ate lunch (McDonald's), and drove up thru rustic Wailuku town to
Iao Needle, where we hiked around the paved loop trail, snapping more
photos as we went.  For those who've never visited Iao, its significance
is well-documented, particularly as the 1790 battle site between Maui
defenders and the invading army of Kamehameha.  So many warriors died in
the fighting that their corpses blocked the flow of Iao Stream, leading to
the naming of the area as Kepaniwai, literally "damming of the waters."

>From Iao, we drove northwest on route 340 (Kahekili Hwy) in search of the
trailhead of the Waihee Ridge trail.  About a 20-minute drive from Wailuku
got us there, but since it was late in the afternoon, we didn't have time
to hike it.  Maybe next time.

We returned to Kahului, picked up the photos at Costco (Jackie has 'em
now so don't ask me to see them), dropped off the rental car, and checked
in for the 6 pm flight back to Honolulu.

Things I learned from this trip:

--With a big group and spotty weather, expect plans to change often.

--The weather, especially in the Hana area, is a big factor in daily
  planning.

--The more walkie-talkies the better.

--Even with walkie-talkies, communication isn't a sure thing.

--Hiking leisurely and taking it easy has its place.

--I'll never go hungry with this group.

--I'll never volunteer to drive a van on the Hana Highway (so don't ever
  ask me!).

--Always bring duct tape.

Aloha and pau,

--DKT

Waianae, Makaha, Dodge ridge to Kamaileunu

Pat, Ed, Steve, and I logged a good amount of hiking today.  We all
started in Waianae Valley and made our way up the No-Name Peak side
of the Waianae Kai trail, a no-nonsense climb  and a good
workout.  From there, we descended an ancient Hawaiian trail, nowadays
used mostly by hunters, to Makaha Valley.  This trail is well-defined in
its upper third but less so the rest of the way as it descends thru guava.
Pink ribbons helped us navigate our way.

Once down in Makaha, we headed makai on a well-used trail along
gently-flowing Makaha Stream.  At one point, Pat led us up a short side
trail on the right that took us in a couple minutes to a pu'u with a
panoramic view of the valley.  Pat and I agreed that the surroundings
reminded us of what one might see from Smoke Rock in Kalalau.  Very nice.

The valley trail led to a Board of Water Supply well and a paved road
leading to the well.  We walked down the road, our next objective being to
find a trail on the left that would lead us to a spur ridge up to the
terminus of the Kamaileunu Trail.  HTMC vet Fred Dodge has hiked this
before, so I christened this Fred Dodge's Ridge.

We walked past the obscure trail on our way down but after backtracking,
we found it (a large pole, and now pink ribbons, mark the spot).  The
trail proceeds into a forest of coffee and macadamia trees for 50-60
meters then veers right on a contour.  After that, the way became
indistinct, and we switched into path-of-least resistance mode, with Pat
as the hammer man.

After about 15 minutes of pushing through, we began climbing a distinct,
rocky ridge.  Yes, this was Dodge Ridge, which we hoped would deliver us
to the summit of Kamaileunu.  We were optimistic yet apprehensive
since none of us had ever hiked this route all the way before (Pat,
Steve, Wing, and I had explored the lower section a few years ago).

Happily, the ridge was quite good, with no chopping necessary and no
overly challenging or taxing rock climbing, at least until we neared the
summit. Goats rule this ridge, evidenced by the well-used paths they've
created and the piles of dung they've left behind.  Additionally, the
acrid aroma of goat urine leaves quite an impression.

As we approached the 2000-foot level, Pat picked up the pace and pressed
forward ahead of the rest of us.  As we neared 2500 feet, we reached a
level section where we could see Pat 100 meters ahead.  He had stopped at
the base of a radical-looking rock section, and it was obvious to us that
Pat had ceased hiking because the section was a dangerous one.

Steve, Ed, and I eventually reached the base of the rock section and
followed Pat to the left on a narrow bypass used by goats. A
big drop had us moving very cautiously.  We decided that this left
bypass was too risky, so we backtracked to the face of the rock section
and explored bypass possibilities on the right.  These didn't pan out, so
the only option was to attempt the face straight on if the summit were to
be acquired.

Testing every foot- and handhold several times, Pat went first.  As we
nervously watched, he made it and then reported that ridge ahead looked
doable.  Ed, exercising the same kind of caution, went next.  Success.
Next in line were Steve and I.  Admittedly, I was very nervous about
climbing this face but after watching Pat and Ed make it okay, I felt I
could do it.  Steve, a very cautious sort, opted not to try it, even
after my concerted pep talk about what a great climber he is (which is no
BS).

Not wanting Steve to have to descend the ridge and find his way out of
Makaha alone, I decided to pass on the summit and head down with him. I
yelled out our plan to Pat and asked that he drive over to the end of
Kili Drive in Makaha to pick us up.  Pat said he would.

So Pat and Ed continued up the ridge to reach the Kamaileunu terminus and
then hiked makai on that trail to Kepauula and the ridge that descended to
the junkyard in Waianae Valley. Earlier, Pat had left his vehicle on a
residential street near the junkyard.

In the meantime, Steve and I headed back down, stopping at the 1400-foot
level to examine what we thought was a halapepe tree.  We eventually
reached the BOWS road and headed makai on it toward Kaneaki Heiau.  Just
mauka of Kaneaki, we veered right on a trail, leaving the road behind.
This trail was overgrown with grass but still discernible.  We crossed
the stream a handful of times and then emerged on a fairway of the Makaha
Valley Golf Course.  Not wanting to walk out on the golf course, we
backtracked a minute on the trail and found another trail heading off in
the direction of the Makaha condo towers and Kili Drive.  We followed
it. Steve and I eventually emerged on Huipo Drive, where we turned right
for the short walk to the end of Kili Drive by the security checkpoint
for the Makaha Towers.  We sat down  to rest on a bus stop bench and five
minutes later Pat and Ed pulled up to pick us up.  Great timing!

In all, it was a good day of hiking.  The weather stayed fairly cool all
day, with just a brief passing drizzle around 2:30.  By 5 p.m., we all
were motoring off for home.

Some notes, not necessarily hike-related:

1.  Posthike, on the way back up Waianae Valley to pick up my vehicle, we
passed a large gathering of people in an undeveloped lot where Waianae
Valley Road veers left and narrows.  Chicken fight!

2. Regular unleaded gas is $1.76 a gallon in Nanakuli!  I filled up on the
way home.

3. Around 5:30, Ed (passenger) and I (driving) witnessed an accident on H1
right by the Waikele offramp.  While traveling in the center lane, we
saw a car two lanes to our left slam into a light pole along the center
median and flip over 5 to 6 times. We pulled over to render aid and Ed
called 911 on his cell phone.  Miraculously, the driver and his
passenger survived!

--dkt

Friendship Garden and Kokokahi

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 17:01:20 -1000
From: Shelly Bermudez <sbermudez@ywcaoahu.org>
To: turner@hawaii.edu
Subject: Friendship Garden

Aloha,

My name is Shelly Bermudez and I am the Program Manager of YWCA Camp
Kokokahi.  Upon conducting a word search of Kokokahi, I came across your
webpages about your hiking experience and the spirit dog.  Mahalo for
sharing your story.  For the past 5 years that I have been at the camp, I
have been interested in hearing any ghost stories about the Kokokahi
site.

Some brief history on Kokokahi.....

Dreams are realized in a diversity of ways, but few so beautifully as
that of Theodore Richards who envisioned  a Hawaiian valley where people
of many races would work, play, and pray together in harmony.  This was
"Kokokahi" of one blood.  This was the name he gave the valley when his
dream came to life in 1928.  His vision of Kokokahi was inspired by the
moving sermon of St. Paul in Chapter XVII of the Acts of Apostles.

Friendship Garden was a part of the whole Kokokahi system.  Mr. & Mrs.
Jack Gillmar, their children and numerous volunteers labored for 25 years
to restore and maintain the garden. In 1998, The Friendship Garden
Foundation obtained the deed for the property from the YWCA.  Mr. and
Mrs. Gillmar believe it is very important  to maintain the garden to
continue Dr. Richard's dream.  Mr. Gillmar's grandfather, Frank Schudder,
a Congregational missionary was a friend of Dr. Richards and played an
active role in Kokokahi's early days.

Russell Porter and Ted Talbott, two Windward residents were helpful in
restoring the trials that connected to the garden. One of the trails that
ties into Friendship Garden is named the Dudley Talbott Trail.  It was
built by Ted Talbott in honor of his grandfather, Paul Dudley.  It is
said that Mr. Tolbott, with the help of a few friends, worked about 1,000
hours and completed the trail in about 9 months.

If you are interested in more information about YWCA Camp Kokokahi,
please feel free to call the camp at the phone number below.

Aloha Nui Loa,

Shelly Bermudez
YWCA of O'ahu
Camp Kokokahi
45-035 Kaneohe Bay Drive
Kaneohe, Hawaii   96744
(808)247-2124 ext. 11
www.ywcaoahu.org

Bearclaw Ridge

I dislike hiking in streambeds and along narrow ridges with rotten rock. As things turned out, I did both today probably because I'm a hardheaded son of a gun. Or maybe I did it because it was April Fool's Day, and I'm the king of fools. Today, the TM gang was slated to work on the Kipapa Trail in cooperation with the feds, but that outing was cancelled at the 11th hour. So, in place of Kipapa, Mabel requested that the crew hike/work on the Pu'u o Kona route for an upcoming club hike. So a bunch of us showed up at the end of Kalaau Place in Kuliouou Valley this morning to do our thing. I'd hiked the o Kona route last Saturday and reported to Mabel that not much work was needed on it. Given that, the day was designated more one for hiking than for labor. No complaints from me in that regard. The assembled throng dispersed hither and yon. Some folks went up the direct route to Kuliouou Ridge. Some went up the middle ridge via the end of Papahehi Place. I went with a group of folks up the valley trail that led to the waterfall trail that led up to Kuliouou West by an airplane wreck near the summit. The valley/waterfall group had a good workout. Our crew included Peter Kempf, Ed Gilman, Pat Enomoto, Brenda & Dick Cowan, Jay Feldman, and Jason Sunada, and me. We all made it up to Kuliouou West in good stead, after a romp thru a dry stream (which, as mentioned earlier, I dislike) and a huff-n-puffer of a climb. After climbing up the middle ridge from Papahehi, Nathan Yuen, Thea Ferentinos, and Tom Yoza arrived at the pu'u by the airplane wreck about the same time as our group. Looking across the valley, we saw a string of hikers topping out on the Kuliouou state trail. They turned out to be Justin Ohara, Mike Algiers, and friends, who were bound for Makapuu along the summit. We also were in radio contact with other folks in the TM crew, who were working in Kaalakei Valley and up Mauna o Ahi Ridge. Lynn Agena, who's been tied up with work on Sundays since starting a new job, was with the crew today. Also on hand were Mabel Kekina, Deetsie Chave, Bill Gorst, Connie and Gordon Muschek, June Miyasato, Mel Yoshioka, among others. Our group summited, rested awhile, then began clearing the trail along the crest toward Pu'u o Kona (not much work to be done). Once at o Kona (elev 2200), we took a look at Bear Claw Ridge, the massive spur that extends down to Waimanalo. Many of us have looked at this ridge from the summit and from Waimanalo, wondering if we'd muster the nerve to ever attempt it. Well today a few of mustered up some muster. After some rationalizing and feet dragging, we took the plunge. I went down a side spur and then bashed and slashed left into a wide, heavily vegetated ravine that was a mess of 'ie'ie and strangling plants. Ed later followed my basic line of torture. Meanwhile, Jason damned the torpedos and went down the direct ridge, and Peter edged after him. My way was safer but required more energy expenditure. Jason's way was direct but more exposed. It was pick your poison. I eventually made my way thru the vegetation stranglehold, while being urged on and peppered with advice via walkie-talkie from comrades watching my progress up on the summit ridge. After hearing from Jason that the main ridge was "okay" (a relative term in the HTMC), I clawed my way very steeply thru 'ie'ie and buffalo grass to regain the main ridge where Jason had stopped to wait for me. At this point, Peter had decided to head back up and Ed was still battling the tangling flora (Ed later gained the main ridge and then headed back to the summit). So Jason and I slowly and carefully continued makai down the Bear Claw. We moved gingerly down some steep, crumbly slopes that obviously were negotiable and edged to the right of a couple of pinnacle rock formations. While edging, I had to move extra carefully because of my wide and heavy bulk ("walk lightly" was my mantra). Many of the rocks along the ridge, some boulder-sized, were rotten and ready to dislodge under the weight or tug of an unwary hiker. Fortunately, Jason and I are experienced enough to know what and how much to grab, lean on, and put weight on to avoid a big plunge. We passed to the left of a large ironwood tree and the ridge narrowed right after it. We crept along the thin, rocky ridge and then jumped down on the right. In the process, I dislodged a piece of the mountain. Looking at the ridge I'd destroyed, Jason said, "I hope we'll be able to climb back up." I hoped so, too. Not far after that, we arrived at a place where the main ridge narrowed and veered to the left and a broader side spur split off down to the right, with a broad, vegetated ravine between the two. The main ridge dropped to a vertical rockface of 8 to 10 feet. On the other hand, the right spur could be descended without aids. While I watched from above, Jason descended the right spur ten feet then did a left slabbing contour to get over to the main ridge, bypassing the 8-10 foot rockface. While I continued to watch (I'd decided not to go any further), Jason went down the main ridge a bit more then came back, saying he felt a little nervous. In a way, it was good to hear him say this because I was plenty nervous. Nervousness loves company, it seems. Jason, having decided to descend the main ridge no further, reslabbed back to the righthand side spur, descended that for a bit, then came back up to where I was. From this position, we were at the ~1800 ft level (altimeter watch check) and about 100 meters mauka of the ironwood grove that marks the point where the two claws of the ridge split steeply downward to the Waimanalo foothills below. It was around noon and time for lunch, but we both agreed not to eat until we had returned to the summit since somehow food would probably be unenjoyable with thoughts in our heads of the dicey climb still looming. Moreover, clouds started massing along the summit ridge, an indicator that rain might soon follow. Precipitation plus steep eroded slopes equal bad news, so even moreso were we motivated to return to the summit without delay. After discussing crossing over the ravine to our left to ascend a spur on that side, we decided to stick with the main ridge, which we carefully made our way up. When we reached the narrow section by the ironwood tree, Jason slabbed left past the tree while I used its branches like a ladder to regain the ridgetop (thank heaven for strong branches), bypassing the narrow neck we'd hopped down (and I damaged) earlier. We then ascended the steep, eroded hill we'd come down earlier, did a twister contortionist routine thru a thicket of christmas berry (I did a bit of chopping there), then climbed steeply and carefully up a narrow hogback to the summit. Safety. Yes. Breathing proverbial sighs of relief, we turned south to hike along the summit to the clearing at the top of the state trail, pausing on occasion to look back at profiles of Bear Claw. We ate lunch at the top of the state trail with Peter and Ed, who waited for us there. After lunch, we headed down the state trail, admiring the new stairs we'd worked on last Saturday, and eventually arrived back on Kalaau Place. Notes: We found no ribbons or old cuts on Bear Claw today. It seems that no one has done this recently. We also left no ribbons. On my way home, I drove the Waimanalo backroads to take a good look at Bear Claw from below. Both claws appear do-able. In fact, we know that Al Miller, John Hall, Fred Durst, and others have done Bear Claw. John, who was in attendance today, told me he last did it about 30 years ago but can't recall if he went up on the left or right. He did remember that the climb required no cables/ropes and that access in Waimanalo wasn't problem. In typical HTM fashion, he described the climb as "not too bad." Miller, who has done it more recently, says the right claw is THE WAY to go and that cables are required in several spots. Will it be right or left? Hmmm... A week ago Monday, Ed and Roger Breton completed the section between the Moanalua Saddle and Keahiakahoe. This was a daring, dangerous undertaking since it involved an ascent of a very narrow ridgeline much of it over rotten rock. Nice job to those two. This past Saturday, I hiked Kawaewae Ridge with the club. Jason and his wife and daughter were there as were Thea, Thea's sister and her two kids, Justin, Fred Boll, George Shoemaker, Peter, Steve Brown, Lin Black, Richard McMahon, and many others. It was a fine outing in good weather and everyone seemed to have had a good time. Go HTMC! --dkt